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How To Prevent Venison From Tasting Awful

I hear people say all the time that they don’t like the taste of deer. Some people say that just because they know what they’re eating and have a preconceived notion that it won’t be good. Others have legit gripes, mainly due to poor handling by the hunter from the time of the kill up until it was cooked. This often results in gamey, tough meat. Here are some tips to help combat bad-tasting venison.

venison

Hunting in the real world is not like the Outdoor Channel portrays it to be. Hunters make bad shots from time to time and the deer has to be tracked for a while. Shot placement and the stress the animal received while being trailed plays a big role in gamey meat. The faster a deer dies, the sooner it can be field dressed. This will reduce the amount of acid that builds up in the deer’s muscles.

Hunters often fail to get the deer cooled as quickly as possible. The first step it to field dress the animal immediately and wash out the cavity with cool water. Be sure to dry the cavity out, as the water can be a breeding ground for bacteria. If the temperatures outside are in the mid-30s or cooler, it’s okay to let the deer hang. Anything warmer than that, and the deer needs to hang in a walk-in cooler (or be skinned, quartered, and put on ice if you don’t have a walk-in).

A whitetail is not a hard to deer to quarter. Because of how their joints and tissues hold their legs on, a simple pocket knife can have a deer quartered quicker than you might think. Some might use a saw to cut through bone marrow and small pieces of bone, but then you’d need to watch that shavings from the saw don’t get mixed in with the meat. Stick with a sharp knife instead, and your meat will be free of small bone pieces that can contaminate the meat.

Growing up, I can remember how much my dad loved the taste of fat from a good cut of beef. The same does not hold true with deer fat. Simply stated, deer fat tastes awful. It is not red meat, so cut it off before it’s made into steaks or burger. This includes all fat and silver skin.

Every year before deer season begins, we call in an order to the local butcher shop for beef suet. Even though we removed all of the deer fat, we need to add some sort of fat, whether beef or pork, when grinding it. If this is not done, the lean venison will quickly fall apart when making burgers, meat loaves, etc. We add beef fat at a ratio of 3:1 (three pounds venison per pound of fat).

If you have the means, the time, and the knowledge, I recommend processing all your deer yourself. When you take a deer to a meat locker you can’t be sure how the meat is handled — or if it’s even your own deer that you’re getting back. For all you know, you could be getting back someone elses deer, perhaps one that was gut-shot and not properly handled after the shot. If you have to take a deer to a processor, research the facility by talking to other hunters who’ve used it, and also talk with the workers, who will hopefully be honest with you.

Don’t overcook venison. Cooking deer for too long causes it to become chewy and dry. Venison is best cooked to medium rare, but the outside needs to be cooked. To accomplish this, the grill must be hot enough to quickly sear the outside and lock in the flavors and juices. Turn your venison only once. If there are no grill marks on the meat after three minutes or so, the grate is not hot enough.

Freezer-burnt food, whether it is venison or other food, does not taste good. Some people use a vacuum sealer; if you go this route, buy a good one, as a cheap product will not keep the food fresh. When we butcher our deer, we make wrapping the meat a family affair, with all involved. We put one-pound portions of burger in sandwich bags and the steaks and roasts are wrapped with plastic wrap. After covering it with plastic wrap, we wrap it with good freezer paper and tapes. Writing on each package, we identify the cut of meat, who killed it, and the date of the kill.

I hope this advice helps you create a great-tasting meal. A few more final tips: The younger the deer, the better, more tender it will be (even though this might not sit well with trophy hunters). Thaw venison slowly to prevent toughness, then serve it hot and keep the remainder hot to prevent it from getting a waxy taste.

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The importance of knowing your bowstrings!

Archers are very specific about the bow they use, the sites they mount and the release they settle on, but often overlooked is the actual bow string.  They are as vital to your performance as that of the arrow or even the bow itself.  But the question is, how do you select your bowstrings? And how do you know which ones to opt for? Having to answer these questions might become a bit of a challenge, but with some of these helpful guidelines it just might get easier for you.

1.THE 4 GENERAL THINGS YOU NEED TO LOOK FOR

The best kinds of bowstrings have four qualities you need to know about.

  • They are lightweight
  • They are strong
  • They are highly resistant to abrasion
  • They are moisture-resistant

 2.YOU HAVE TO KNOW WHAT MATERIAL YOUR BOWSTRINGS ARE MADE OF

Modern bowstrings are made of different kinds of synthetic fibers, and knowing what they are can be to your advantage.

  • Dacron: a polyester material that is strong, high-stretch and can last for years. But it’s an outmoded fiber, so wooden bows, older bows and recurve bows, are its best suit. A bowstring made out of Dacron is safe to use on any bow, but results will surely vary.
  •  Kevlar and Vectran: these fibers are made out of polymer. They have a limited-stretch so its arrow speed is faster than Dacron. Kevlar bowstrings, however, can only last for about 1000 shots, and they are known to break without warning.  These materials are not fit for modern compound bows.
  •  HMPE (High- modulus-polyethylene): this fiber is a blend of Spectra and Dyneema. It’s lightweight, faster than any of the materials aforementioned, strong, and long lasting. It is the perfect fit for high-performance recurve bows and modern compound bows.

 3.WHAT KIND OF WAX YOU SHOULD USE

Whether your bowstring is of superior quality or not, it will fray at one point or another. But if you wax it frequently, you can delay the time in which your bowstring wears out and is completely out of use. I can’t emphasis more on just how important it is to wax your bowstring. But what kind of wax should you use? I have a couple of pointers here, but if you have more, then please do feel free to share it with us.

Beeswax: If you are using a traditional bowstring, which is made out of plant fibers and animal material, then you should opt for beeswax.

Silicone based wax:  Most modern bowstrings come pre-waxed, but no lubricant has ever lasted forever, right? So the second the string starts to feel dry, you have to give it a light coating.  Silicone based waxes are ideal for modern bowstrings; it penetrates the material and lubricates the interior as well as the surface of the string. Some of the most commonly used and perhaps the best kinds of synthetic waxes are Dalton High-Speed Bow Wax Conditioner and Bohning Silicone Wax.

Remember, this may seem like a trivial detail but it could be the difference between success and a fruitless hunt! Thank you Martin Douglas of Legendary Archery for the great information!

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Posted by on November 16, 2015 in archery, bow, how to, Wawang Lake Resort

 

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An Illustrated Guide to the Best Game Meat Cuts

There are plenty of hunters out in the field bringing home dinner and we figured we would share some great guides on the best cuts and how to get them from your harvest!  Click on each picture to enlarge for greater detail 🙂

This diagram is the basic overview of the quarters and can be applied to deer, moose, elk and caribou.

illustrated deer

This second diagram is a more in depth cut selection and is coded for the sections as well.  Again, this can be applied to deer, moose, elk and caribou.

deerchart

Ensure before you properly care for your game in all stages of meat preparation to give not only longevity to the meat, but reduce the risk of cross contamination of any bacteria that could not only spoil the meat but could also make you very sick.

Happy hunting!

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Posted by on November 11, 2015 in game, recipe, Wawang Lake Resort

 

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Quartering Your Moose For Transport (with video)

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Here is a fantastic how to video for quartering a moose for transport.  It isn’t unusual to have a moose down where removing it with this method is mandatory.  Great care must be taken of any wild game to ensure there is no spoilage and that no waste is had.

Enjoy!

If you are an Ontario resident and would like more information regarding our accommodations in WMU 15A & 15B
for the 2016 season please feel free to contact us 🙂

Moose, Alces alces, Canada, North America.

 

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Posted by on November 9, 2015 in moose, Wawang Lake Resort

 

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Winter Camping For Beginners

Winter camping can mean different things to different people.  For some, it means renting a cabin heated by a wood stove. For oth­ers, it means pack­ing snow­mo­bile trail­ers to the brim. For the more adven­tur­ous, it means grab­bing a pack and haul­ing in all the neces­si­ties to a remote loca­tion. No mat­ter how you win­ter camp, the fol­low­ing tricks are useful.

WEAR A FIRE­PROOF SHELL
If you are going to build camp­fires, either for the sake of cook­ing, warmth, or morale, make sure that your outer layer of cloth­ing is less likely to end up ruined if struck by an errant ember.  Wool is one of the best, most fire-resistant nat­ural mate­ri­als and is great for this.  Down jack­ets are down­right (no pun intended) awful, and you can lose tons of feath­ers this way.

PACK THE SNOW
Before set­ting up your tent, pack down your camp­site. If you have skis or snow­shoes, that means tramp­ing around hard until all the snow is packed.  If you’re shod only in boots this will take some time, but if you don’t do this, you run the risk of step­ping into a soft bit of snow in your tent and tear­ing the floor.

PACK AN EXTRA HAT AND GLOVES
Always carry a spare hat and a set of mit­tens. No mat­ter how dili­gent you are, no mat­ter how reli­gious you are about using idiot strings and keeper cords, you will lose a hat, and you will lose a glove.  Keep a cheap spare, or be pre­pared for frost­bite or a fore­short­ened trip.

EMBRACE THE PEE BOT­TLE.
Being cold can cause you to want to uri­nate more fre­quently, and we all know how incon­ve­nient it is to dis­robe and undo your sleep­ing bag at 0 degrees F.  For women, I highly rec­om­mend look­ing into the var­i­ous acces­sories that allow you to pee whilst stand­ing, and for both gen­ders a WELL-MARKED pee bot­tle will keep you warm and sim­plify your nightly con­ti­nence. For the love of god, don’t con­fuse your water bottle—color is not enough, make sure your bot­tle is well-marked and maybe wrapped in some duct tape.

USE THOSE STAKES
If there is snow, you can stake out your tent.  You can always make dead­men out of sticks or fallen trees, stuff sacks full of snow, buried skis, snow­shoes, poles, ice axes, or what have you.  There is no excuse for a poorly staked-out tent.  If you expect no snow and frozen con­di­tions, plenty of com­pa­nies make hard tent stakes meant to push through frozen ground, either out of tita­nium, steel, or 7075-t6 aluminum.

BRING THE RIGHT SLEEP­ING PAD
As Bear Grylls says, two lay­ers on the bot­tom are worth one on the top.  That is, you lose more heat through con­duc­tive heat loss when sleep­ing than any­thing else, so win­ter is no time to skimp on your sleep­ing pad.  Make sure you have a pad with an r value of four or more, and if you have one, throw a closed-cell foam pad under­neath. If you feel like your pad isn’t cut­ting it, stuff extra cloth­ing under­neath you, and toss your down jacket on top of your sleep­ing bag.

BOIL THE SNOW
Leave your water fil­ter at home.  Chem­i­cal fil­ters take longer to work in the cold, and mechan­i­cal fil­ters can crack and fail. Your best bet for water fil­tra­tion is boil­ing your water, as you prob­a­bly have to melt snow any­way. Don’t be suck­ered into think­ing glacial melt or fresh snow is sterile–it isn’t. Snowflakes often form around small bits of dust (nucle­ation sites) which can be bac­te­ria or viruses float­ing in the upper atmosphere.

SLEEP WITH YOUR BOOTS
Use boots with remov­able lin­ers, so you can put those lin­ers at the bot­tom of your sleep­ing bag to keep them warm.  If you only have single-layer boots, put them in a water­proof stuff sack at the bot­tom of your sleep­ing bag.  Noth­ing means morn­ing hypother­mia more than frozen boots!

CAMP BY CAN­DLE­LIGHT
A can­dle lantern safely hung on the inside of your tent (far enough away from you and the ceil­ing so as not to be a fire haz­ard) does won­ders to both warm your tent and reduce con­den­sa­tion.  Despite this, a towel for scrap­ing off con­den­sa­tion is always welcome.

EMBRACE LITHIUM
Use lithium bat­ter­ies in all your win­ter elec­tron­ics.  Not only does lithium per­form con­sis­tently down to much colder tem­per­a­tures than alka­line or NiMh bat­ter­ies, but they are lighter, last three times as long, and have a flat decay curve.

WIPE WITH CARE 
In the sum­mer, comfy leaves or soft river stones abound, but in the win­ter they’re few and far-between. While many have picked up pinecones in des­per­a­tion, the best read­ily found alter­na­tive is just plain old snow. It’s effective, ubiquitous, and leaves behind lit­tle residue.  If you do bring TP, please either pack it out or burn it. The ground is too hard for catholes and for those who have hiked along the Appalachian Trail dur­ing the first spring thaw, a mound of TP gen­er­ally sig­ni­fies a poorly hid­den scat stash.

FIGHT CON­DEN­SA­TION WITH A VBL
If you’re out more than a week, use a VBL, or vapor-barrier-liner for your sleep­ing bag.  Con­den­sa­tion from your own body can freeze within the upper layer of your sleep­ing bag where the warm air meets the freez­ing air, and over time your sleep­ing bag can become frozen solid.  While they are not as com­fort­able to sleep in, it beats hit­ting your sleep­ing bag with a ham­mer every night like some polar explor­ers have had to do.

FLIP YOUR BAG
If it’s not snow­ing, turn your sleep­ing bag inside out on top of your tent to dry dur­ing the day.  This is a great rea­son to choose win­ter sleep­ing bags with a black interior–it absorbs more solar energy and dries out faster.

FLIP YOUR WATER
If you have a large water stor­age con­tainer, turn it upside-down when stor­ing it overnight.  Ice forms from the top down, so keep­ing the spout/opening of your con­tainer fac­ing down keeps it from get­ting frozen up. This can be com­bined with insu­lat­ing the con­tainer, of course.

VASE­LINE
Cover exposed skin in Vase­line or ani­mal fats. Inuit have been doing this for years–simply slather any exposed or poten­tially exposed skin on your face, ears, neck, wrists, or hands in a thick oil and they’ll be less prone to wind­burn and frostbite.

Stay warm!

Prefer traditional warm weather camping without snow?  Check us out!

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Building A Smoke House

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Building a smoke house the old fashion way is a method that has been used for generations. Many people today like to smoke their own meat not only to give it flavor but also to preserve it longer.

The size of your smoker will depend on what you plan to use it for. Whether you want it to just smoke a few fish, smoke sausage every now and then or smoke an entire animal at one time, will help you determine the size of your smoker

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Beginning:

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When it comes to flavor of the meat, people through the years have made up their own recipe of brine to rub over the meat before smoking it.

How To Build A Smoke House

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The Building Process:

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Building a smoke house, there are a few things that should be considered when building your smoke house. It is not important to spend a small fortune for material for the construction. Reclaimed wood will work just fine. You may want a smoker big enough to walk in with shelves to lay the meat on along with hocks from the rafters to hang the meat.

You will want to vent the building to allow the smoke to travel freely through the building.

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The Firebox Process:

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Building a smoke house, a very important factor  is to situate your fire box  down hill from the smoke house. This will allow the smoke to travel up hill into the smoker much easier. All that is required for a fire box is a fire box made from brick or even an old barrel with the smoke piped into the smoker will work just fine by having the fire box away from the smoker, the meat will not dry out as much as if it were right in the smoker.

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The Smoking Process:

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To also help in the flavoring of the meat, by using different kinds of wood chips in the fire box will create different smoke changing the flavor in the meat.

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Stop Adding Fat to Your Game Meat

While my Wyoming elk tag has so far gone unfilled, my friend Tess was luckier, tagging her first elk in a Nebraska cornfield not long ago. A heat wave prompted us to spend all day Sunday butchering and last night we put about 20 lbs. of trimmings through the grinder.

I’ve been processing my own (and others) deer and elk for about a dozen years and view adding some type of fat to ground venison as a necessary evil. I prefer ground pork, adding anywhere from 10 to 20 percent. Due to a calculating error on my part (I was told there would be no math!), Tess’ grind ended up at about 25 percent pork, a bit more than she preferred.

Ground_Elk_0910_004
This math problem set me to wondering why hunters take a healthy source of protein and fatten it up? That’s like someone on a diet taking a carrot stick and dipping it in ranch dressing. Quick research shows no clear consensus on what or how much fat to add. Some hunters swear by 50/50, others just 10 percent. Some like pork, others beef tallow. Some add bacon ends and pieces.

Certainly, there’s a rationale to adding fat, including enhancing flavor because, hey, we all know fat tastes good. Fat also keeps meat from drying out when you fry it and helps patties from falling apart. But is there a better, healthier alternative? Yes, depending on how you’re planning to cook it.

Burgers on the grill are probably how much of the ground venison in America makes it to the table. I’ll be the first to admit, making a good burger without fat sounds impossible. The fat not only makes a burger juicy, it also helps it stay in patty form. Next time you have some 100 percent ground venison you want to throw on the grill, trying adding an egg and some breadcrumbs to serve as a binder. I’ve also heard of using steel-cut oats, diced onion, shredded potato and even powdered milk.

When frying ground venison for tacos, chili or spaghetti, cook it without fat. The spices should cover any gamy flavor you or your family might object to. (If not, find a new butcher to process your deer or learn to do it yourself. Since I started DIY processing 12 years ago, I’ve never had gamy game meat.) If the dry texture turns you off, try frying it in a little bit of olive oil, or add moisture as the venison browns in the form of stock, tomato juice or other flavored liquid.

As you can see, there are lots of alternatives to adding fat to your ground venison. What about you? How do you keep your low-fat game meat low fat? – David Draper, Wild Chef Blogger

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Cats Kill Billions of Birds and Mammals Annually

Cats that live in the wild or indoor pets allowed to roam outdoors kill from 1.4 billion to as many as 3.7 billion birds in the continental U.S. each year, says a new study that escalates a decades-old debate over the feline threat to native animals. The estimates are much higher than the hundreds of millions of annual bird deaths previously attributed to cats. The study also says that from 6.9 billion to as many as 20.7 billion mammals — mainly mice, shrews, rabbits and voles — are killed by cats annually in the contiguous 48 states. The report is scheduled to be published Tuesday in Nature Communications. “I was stunned,” said ornithologist Peter Marra of the Smithsonian’s Conservation Biology Institute. He and Smithsonian colleague Scott Loss, and U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service biologist Tom Will conducted the study.killercat

Yes, that’s right. Billions. According to the story, the study reveals that free-ranging cats are likely the single greatest source of mortality for birds and mammals in the United States. The study is also critical of one of the more ridiculous schemes to deal with feral cats; the so-called “TNR” programs (for Trap-Nueter-Release) that feral cat advocacy groups love, calling them “potentially harmful to wildlife populations” because such programs simply return feral cats to the wild to continue killing wildlife.

The study also tried to put a number to just how many un-owned cats there are in the U.S., with the estimate being anywhere from 30 to upwards of 80 million cats. Of course, cat lovers have been pushing back against the study, saying the felines are just convenient scapegoats for habitat loss, window and vehicle collisions, and other man-made hazards. I’d argue that feral cats ARE a man-made hazard, one that something should be done about.

There’s now an admittedly Quixote-like push to eventually get rid of cats in New Zealand in order to save that nation’s endangered biodiversity and I’d love to see something similar happen in this country, if for nothing else than to raise awareness of the issue. Very few people tolerate dogs running wild, so why do so many in this country think it’s OK to let cats do the same? Agree or disagree?     by Chad Love

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The Wrong Turn

survival3

 On Aug. 31, Bill Lawrence, 40, got separated from his hunting partners and remained lost for five days. As told to Colin Kearns.

Wednesday. I’d just killed my first squirrel when I glanced over for my friends Russell and Cris. They were gone.

Russell was the only one who’d hunted these woods, Meeman-Shelby Forest north of Memphis. We’d been hunting for 20 minutes and were deep into the forest. Russell and Cris stuck together, while I drifted to their left. I tried to stay within eyesight of them, but I was also watching for snakes. The last time I saw them, it looked like they were continuing in a straight line. Then I stopped to shoot the squirrel.

I thought I had an idea where they were, but an hour later I wasn’t any closer. I shouted, but the thick woods only swallowed my cries. So I turned to hike back to the truck, but an hour later I was even more lost. I kept walking, though, figuring I’d find a way out.

I walked, stopping to rest now and then, until it started to get dark. I’d fired a couple of shots but got no response. It never got cold, which was good because I had nothing to build a fire with. I doused myself with bug dope, then lay down. With my vest, I was able to cover my face and roll up the bottom end to use as a pillow. That dead squirrel in the pocket added a decent cushion.

I heard helicopters but they couldn’t see me through the trees, and I wasn’t going to run through the woods in the dark. I just prayed they’d find me tomorrow.

Thursday. I finished the last of the two water bottles I’d brought with me that morning. The days were hot, and I was walking and sweating a lot. I needed to stay hydrated. Fortunately, it rained that morning, and I managed to catch a half bottle’s worth of water.

I mostly squirrel hunt, but I have enough experience hunting deer and rabbits that I can identify tracks—and I know that if you follow those tracks, they’ll often lead to a water source, which in my case was a puddle in gumbo mud. I dipped my empty bottle and watched it fill with gray, grimy water. I didn’t want to drink it. I worried it’d make me sick. But what choice did I have? I was already getting dehydrated.

The taste was nasty—dirty and sandy—but the dip of mint Skoal I had in my mouth made it at least drinkable. I figured I should eat something, too, even though I wasn’t starving. I turned a dead stump over and found some nightcrawlers. They tasted about as bad as the gumbo water. I don’t know how many I ate—only that I’d never eat another one.

The rest of Thursday was a lot like Wednesday: Walk, then break for a nap. Walk, then nap. That second day, as I was walking—with no real end in sight—is when I started talking to God. Why is this happening? If I don’t make it out, will you take care of my wife and kids?

imagesTJNT6CHZThat night I awoke to a WHOOSHWHOOSHWHOOSH. Dazed, it took me a moment to realize that it was another chopper—and that it was right above me. I stumbled to find the flashlight in my vest. But by the time I turned it on, it was too late. After the chopper left, my flashlight burned out.

Friday. I kept moving and praying—all day. Walking gave me a purpose. Praying gave me strength. I truly believe my faith is what kept me from ever panicking. That afternoon I stumbled upon some persimmons. They were the most delicious things I’d eaten in a long time, and they were just sitting there on the ground, perfectly ripe, waiting to be found.
Saturday. I heard a low-flying chopper that morning. I took the T-shirt I had on under my camo shirt, tied it to the barrel of my Mossberg, and rushed to the nearest open area where I waved it around. But it never got close enough.

I was weak and tired. My body ached. For the first time I started to think I might not get out. I had started with 15 shells, and by then I only had four or five left. I’d been firing them and leaving the shells at spots where I rested. But on Saturday I decided to fire the rest I had at once. I didn’t know how much more of this misery I’d have to suffer, and I didn’t want the option of taking my own life.

Later that afternoon, as I was resting, I heard two sounds: a Harley-Davidson and a chain saw. I decided to stay put for the remainder of the day and save my energy. Tomorrow, I’d travel toward those sounds. I just knew that if I didn’t get out on Sunday, I never would.

Sunday. I came to a hill that I wasn’t sure I had the strength to climb. I sat down on a nearby log and prayed for strength. When I finally got up and walked to the hill, I glanced to the left where I saw a trail. And I took it.

Two miles later I hit a blacktop road. I fell to the ground crying. I flagged down a couple of motorcyclists who came down the road and told them who I was. “Son,” one of them said, “there’s a lot of people looking for you.”

They drove me to the camp the search team had set up nearby. Just as they got me on the stretcher and were about to drive me to the hospital, I was given a satellite phone. Kim, my wife, was on the other line. My eyes welled. “Hey,” I said. “I’m alive.”

Survival Analysis
Bill Lawrence had no method of striking fire, carried nothing to signal with but his shotgun, and possessed no tool to navigate to safety but his brain. When he became lost, he had nothing to eat but nightcrawlers and no means to disinfect water. He was unfamiliar with the country and carried no map. To sum up: He struck into the woods about as unprepared as a man can be. But before you criticize him too harshly, take a look at yourself. Have you ever been similarly unprepared for an emergency, using the excuse that you only plan to be gone a few hours and won’t stray more than a few hundred yards from the road? I know I have.

Lawrence’s ordeal should be a cautionary tale for all of us, emphasizing the importance of carrying basic survival gear every time we go afield, no matter how small that field we intend to hunt. A compass, a whistle, a sparking wheel, Tinder Tabs, and chlorine tablets weigh about as much as a tin of Altoids, and easily fit inside one. S - - t happens. Have a hat for it.

Lawrence’s reaction to being lost was to walk and then walk some more. By doing so, he disobeyed the four steps that almost ensure survival: Stop. Shelter. Signal. Stay. Had he stopped walking, tied his undershirt to a treetop or placed it in an opening where it could be seen or, better yet, spelled SOS in a clearing with branches or stones, then hunkered out of the wind to wait, he probably would have been found quickly after being reported missing. Ninety percent of search-and-rescue operations are resolved during the initial hasty search, usually within 10 hours.

One thing that Lawrence did do right needs to be emphasized: He never panicked and was determined to survive. The right attitude is one positive that can make up for a lot of negatives in any survival situation.

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The Game Saver Silver Vacuum Sealing System

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 Last fall I replaced my Cabela’s CG-15 vacuum sealer with a new model from FoodSaver—the GameSaver Silver (GS-500), which is marketed toward sportsmen. I had originally picked up the CG-15 as a refurbished unit in Cabela’s Bargain Cave, but after probably a decade of hard use that included several elk, a couple dozen deer, a few bear and antelope, and several seasons worth of geese and ducks, it was starting to show some wear and tear. When the folks at FoodSaver reached out offering a test model of their GameSaver Silver, I was happy to take them up on it. If nothing else, I wouldn’t have to cart that beast of vacuum sealer that was the CG-15 up and down my stairs anymore.

One problem I’ve had with a lot of vacuum sealer—including so-called “commercial-grade” models—is that after a season or two of intensive use they start to suck, in that they lose some of their vacuum pressure. You might get the device to remove a lot of the air, but it doesn’t have that extra oomph to really get a good, airtight package. So far, I’ve sealed a couple of deer, one antelope, countless ducks, geese, and pheasants, and about 50 pounds of redfish fillets—and the GameSaver Silver still has enough suck to flatten an empty aluminum can, as you can see in the accompanying photo.

Gamesaver1Of course, there’s also the case of too much vacuum, especially when you’re sealing soft or delicate foods. That’s where the GameSaver’s seal override button comes in. While sealing these pheasant sausages, I was able to stop the vacuum pressure before it flattened the tubed meat by hitting the oversized seal button.

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Other features I like are the handle and locking lid, which makes toting the lightweight unit easy and makes me more likely to pack the thing along on extended hunting trips. It also comes with a 12-volt adapter cord to run off a vehicle’s electrical accessory port, or, to us old timers, the cigarette lighter plug. I am a little concerned about the ruggedness of the GameSaver’s construction, but so far it’s survived nearly a year of my handling, which is saying something.

There are a few things I don’t like: The heat bar seems like it takes a long time to seal, longer than any other units I’ve tested. Some online reviewers have also complained about a tendency for the unit to overheat and shut down for a period of anywhere from 5 to 30 minutes. I personally haven’t had that problem, even when packaging an entire deer’s worth of meat, but it is worth noting.

Of course, there’s also the problem with sealing fish, chicken, or other high-moisture items. As the vacuum is running, the liquid is sucked to the top of the bag preventing the heat bar from creating a full seal. Every vacuum sealer I’ve ever used has this same problem, although the GameSaver Silver seems to be even more finicky than most. I usually combat this with either a folded-up piece of paper towel placed inside the bag or by stopping the vacuum and sealing the bag before the moisture makes it way to the seal bar. FoodSaver does sell Liquid Block bags that feature a moisture-absorbing pad. I’ve used them and they do work, but at a buck per bag, I’ll stick with my more primitive, cheaper methods.

by David Draper

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