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Category Archives: camping equipment

Making Waterproof Matches

When it comes to matches, waterproof ones are best, especially in dire circumstances like a flood. Since they’re much more expensive than their pedestrian cousins, you might want to make your own.

cabdle

Use the Candle Technique
Burn a candle long enough for a pool of wax to form around the wick. Blow it out, then dip the head of your match into the wet wax, about of an inch (3 mm) up the stick. Remove the matchstick and allow the wax to dry, pinching it closed to form a water-tight seal.

Deploy the Nail Polish Ploy
Coat your matches with clear nail polish to waterproof them. Dip the head of the match and a bit of the matchstick itself into the polish, then rest the match on a counter with the head hanging off the edge to dry. Survive any wilderness situation with these critical tips.

Try the Turpentine Trick
The easiest way to waterproof your matches is simply to drop them in turpentine. Allow the matches to soak for five minutes before placing them on newspaper to dry. After twenty minutes or so, you’ll have waterproof matches that will last several months.

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How to Make a Quick CAN Stove

If you suffer sticker shock after shopping for wood-burning camping stoves, you’re not alone. Why pay $60 to $100 for a titanium backpacking wood stove when you can make one out of a bean can for nothing. Sure, you could build a fire without any containment at all, but the low weight, efficiency, and minimal set-up time of a tin-can stove could make you a believer. And as long as there are sticks to burn, your stove will have fuel. Follow these easy steps, and you’ll have a lightweight bug-out-ready survival stove in no time.

1

The Gear List
To create a bean can stove, you’ll certainly need the empty can. You’ll also need a pair of tin snips. If you don’t have a pair in your tool box, borrow a pair. You’ll also need a tape measure, a pencil or marker, a drill with a ½-inch (or similar size) drill bit, and a file to remove sharp edges when you’re done. Gloves are a good idea, too,  since you’ll be working with a lot of sharp metal.

2

The Procedure
Remove the can lid completely from a 40-ounce (or similar sized) food can. You could use a smaller can, but the 40-ounce size because one-quart water bottles will nest inside the finished stove. Next, make a mark all the way around the can about 1 ½ inches below the open top. Use your tin snips, spiraling in, to cut this ring off the top of the can, but before you start, determine whether you are using right- or left-hand snips. It will be easier if you cut in the correct direction. You could leave the can full height, but I wouldn’t recommend it. A shortened stove has better balance, and the last thing you need is for your stove to tip over.

3

Next, make four equidistant marks around the mouth. Each mark will be the centerline for the four “teeth” on the top of your stove. Mark a line half an inch on either side of each of the four centerlines and draw a line around the can 1 inch down from the mouth. Using the tin snips again cut out the lines,  leaving four 1×1-inch teeth at the top of the can.

Next, drill eight equally-spaced holes around the bottom of the can wall. These will be the air intake vents. File off any sharp or rough edges from your metal work. Finally, before you start cooking food or boiling water over this stove, burn a few twigs for about ten minutes to get rid of the plastic can lining.

4

The Effectiveness
Once your stove is complete, set some tinder in the bottom and some broken twigs on the top of that. Place it in a stable, level spot and light the tinder through one of the vent holes. Place your cooking pot over the top of the stove and cook away. You will have to remove the pot every time you need to add fuel, but this is far better than trying to create stove doors for adding fuel. It also forces you to set the dangerously hot pot out of the way when refueling. This stove can burn twigs, paper, cardboard and any other solid fuel that’ll fit inside; and it boils one quart of water in about eight minutes. The finished stove weighs only 2 ½ ounces.

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Tinywood Home on Trailer with Built In Outdoor Hot Tub

Have you ever heard about a tiny house that is also a hot tub? Yes, the project can be made and it already exists, thanks to a small company based in Warwickshire, England. The architects thought about building a home that offer comfort, relaxation and entertainment at the same time, and built this amazing tiny home that comes with an attached hot tub.

hot-tub-tiny-home-on-wheels

The company is specialized in building tiny homes and merging utility with creativity.

The inside is fully equipped as you will find a small kitchen, lounge area, two bedrooms upstairs and a functional heating system.

So after taking a look, you can say that it is the most perfect small vacation house for you and your family. As tiny as it is, there is still plenty of space inside for a family with two kids.

The outside hot tub is just an extra feature that tops the awesomeness of this house.

hot-tub-tiny-home-on-wheels-7

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How To Build A Fire & Cook Over It

Here is two tutorials on how to build a fire and to cook over it.

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Tutorial 1

 

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Tutorial 2

 

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Portable Kitchen – Packsack

grub_hub_+camp_kitchen

For many outdoor enthusiasts on this planet camping is still an popular activity. But being out in the wilderness doesn’t have to mean sacrificing all the amenities we take for granted at home. The Grub Hub is a portable kitchen that’s been around for a few years, but we’ve only now discovered.

It packs everything, and yes, even the kitchen sink. No, this isn’t just a bad play on words: it does come with its own sink for washing your dirty dishes. Aside from holding your stove (not included), there are compartments to hold your pots and pans, telescoping rods to hang your lanterns or anything else that can be hung, and even 9 square feet of table surface for you to prepare your meals on.

[ Product Page]
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Winter Camping For Beginners

Winter Camping
Winter camping can mean different things to different people.  For some, it means renting a cabin heated by a wood stove. For oth­ers, it means pack­ing snow­mo­bile trail­ers to the brim. For the more adven­tur­ous, it means grab­bing a pack and haul­ing in all the neces­si­ties to a remote loca­tion. No mat­ter how you win­ter camp, the fol­low­ing tricks are useful.

WEAR A FIRE­PROOF SHELL
If you are going to build camp­fires, either for the sake of cook­ing, warmth, or morale, make sure that your outer layer of cloth­ing is less likely to end up ruined if struck by an errant ember.  Wool is one of the best, most fire-resistant nat­ural mate­ri­als and is great for this.  Down jack­ets are down­right (no pun intended) awful, and you can lose tons of feath­ers this way.

PACK THE SNOW
Before set­ting up your tent, pack down your camp­site. If you have skis or snow­shoes, that means tramp­ing around hard until all the snow is packed.  If you’re shod only in boots this will take some time, but if you don’t do this, you run the risk of step­ping into a soft bit of snow in your tent and tear­ing the floor.

PACK AN EXTRA HAT AND GLOVES
Always carry a spare hat and a set of mit­tens. No mat­ter how dili­gent you are, no mat­ter how reli­gious you are about using idiot strings and keeper cords, you will lose a hat, and you will lose a glove.  Keep a cheap spare, or be pre­pared for frost­bite or a fore­short­ened trip.

EMBRACE THE PEE BOT­TLE.
Being cold can cause you to want to uri­nate more fre­quently, and we all know how incon­ve­nient it is to dis­robe and undo your sleep­ing bag at 0 degrees F.  For women, I highly rec­om­mend look­ing into the var­i­ous acces­sories that allow you to pee whilst stand­ing, and for both gen­ders a WELL-MARKED pee bot­tle will keep you warm and sim­plify your nightly con­ti­nence. For the love of god, don’t con­fuse your water bottle—color is not enough, make sure your bot­tle is well-marked and maybe wrapped in some duct tape.

USE THOSE STAKES
If there is snow, you can stake out your tent.  You can always make dead­men out of sticks or fallen trees, stuff sacks full of snow, buried skis, snow­shoes, poles, ice axes, or what have you.  There is no excuse for a poorly staked-out tent.  If you expect no snow and frozen con­di­tions, plenty of com­pa­nies make hard tent stakes meant to push through frozen ground, either out of tita­nium, steel, or 7075-t6 aluminum.

BRING THE RIGHT SLEEP­ING PAD
As Bear Grylls says, two lay­ers on the bot­tom are worth one on the top.  That is, you lose more heat through con­duc­tive heat loss when sleep­ing than any­thing else, so win­ter is no time to skimp on your sleep­ing pad.  Make sure you have a pad with an r value of four or more, and if you have one, throw a closed-cell foam pad under­neath. If you feel like your pad isn’t cut­ting it, stuff extra cloth­ing under­neath you, and toss your down jacket on top of your sleep­ing bag.

BOIL THE SNOW
Leave your water fil­ter at home.  Chem­i­cal fil­ters take longer to work in the cold, and mechan­i­cal fil­ters can crack and fail. Your best bet for water fil­tra­tion is boil­ing your water, as you prob­a­bly have to melt snow any­way. Don’t be suck­ered into think­ing glacial melt or fresh snow is sterile–it isn’t. Snowflakes often form around small bits of dust (nucle­ation sites) which can be bac­te­ria or viruses float­ing in the upper atmosphere.

SLEEP WITH YOUR BOOTS
Use boots with remov­able lin­ers, so you can put those lin­ers at the bot­tom of your sleep­ing bag to keep them warm.  If you only have single-layer boots, put them in a water­proof stuff sack at the bot­tom of your sleep­ing bag.  Noth­ing means morn­ing hypother­mia more than frozen boots!

CAMP BY CAN­DLE­LIGHT
A can­dle lantern safely hung on the inside of your tent (far enough away from you and the ceil­ing so as not to be a fire haz­ard) does won­ders to both warm your tent and reduce con­den­sa­tion.  Despite this, a towel for scrap­ing off con­den­sa­tion is always welcome.

EMBRACE LITHIUM
Use lithium bat­ter­ies in all your win­ter elec­tron­ics.  Not only does lithium per­form con­sis­tently down to much colder tem­per­a­tures than alka­line or NiMh bat­ter­ies, but they are lighter, last three times as long, and have a flat decay curve.

WIPE WITH CARE 
In the sum­mer, comfy leaves or soft river stones abound, but in the win­ter they’re few and far-between. While many have picked up pinecones in des­per­a­tion, the best read­ily found alter­na­tive is just plain old snow. It’s effective, ubiquitous, and leaves behind lit­tle residue.  If you do bring TP, please either pack it out or burn it. The ground is too hard for catholes and for those who have hiked along the Appalachian Trail dur­ing the first spring thaw, a mound of TP gen­er­ally sig­ni­fies a poorly hid­den scat stash.

FIGHT CON­DEN­SA­TION WITH A VBL
If you’re out more than a week, use a VBL, or vapor-barrier-liner for your sleep­ing bag.  Con­den­sa­tion from your own body can freeze within the upper layer of your sleep­ing bag where the warm air meets the freez­ing air, and over time your sleep­ing bag can become frozen solid.  While they are not as com­fort­able to sleep in, it beats hit­ting your sleep­ing bag with a ham­mer every night like some polar explor­ers have had to do.

FLIP YOUR BAG
If it’s not snow­ing, turn your sleep­ing bag inside out on top of your tent to dry dur­ing the day.  This is a great rea­son to choose win­ter sleep­ing bags with a black interior–it absorbs more solar energy and dries out faster.

FLIP YOUR WATER
If you have a large water stor­age con­tainer, turn it upside-down when stor­ing it overnight.  Ice forms from the top down, so keep­ing the spout/opening of your con­tainer fac­ing down keeps it from get­ting frozen up. This can be com­bined with insu­lat­ing the con­tainer, of course.

VASE­LINE
Cover exposed skin in Vase­line or ani­mal fats. Inuit have been doing this for years–simply slather any exposed or poten­tially exposed skin on your face, ears, neck, wrists, or hands in a thick oil and they’ll be less prone to wind­burn and frostbite.

Stay warm!
winter-camping-uintas

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10 Incredibly Cool Adventure Campers You Wish You Owned

By Matt Alpert

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These are 10 of the most awesome adventure campers ever made.

If you want to go car camping in the wild — the real wild — your Toyota Camry is not going to cut it. No my friend, you’re going to need something with some more chutzpah.

These 10 heavy-duty adventure campers are designed to crawl over any terrain that stands in their way, be it a steep mountain or dense jungle brush. Heck, some of them can even drive across the ocean.

Some of these adventure campers are loaded with amenities that you’d typically find in a high-end RV. So, if you’ve ever wanted to try glamping in a desert, jungle or rugged mountainside, these adventure campers will get the job done.

Jeep Forward Control

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1The Jeep Forward Control is a unique utility vehicle that was made from 1956 to 1965. These trucks feature a cab over engine layout that gives the vehicle a shorter wheelbase.

Jeep Forward Controls were made as both a pickup truck and a van. Both designs are great vehicle platforms for rugged camper conversions, such as the one pictured above. Good luck finding one today.

EarthRoamer

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2If you had the thought to put your RV on a jacked-up 4×4, EarthRoamer beat you to the punch.

The company makes heavy-duty, go-anywhere expedition campers that are loaded with the amenities you’d expect in an RV. The company started by building self-contained Jeep Wrangler camper conversions, but later switched to modifying Ford trucks like the F-650 featured above.

Terra Wind Amphibious RV

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3The Terra Wind is a fully-loaded luxury motor home that can operate on land and water.

It can reach a cruising speed of 7 knots on the water, and can drive up to 80mph on land. But it comes with a hefty price tag – these bad boys cost $850,000.

Unicat TC55 Comfort Plus

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4Ok, it kind of looks like a garbage truck, but don’t let this rugged camper’s exterior fool you.

Inside you’ll find high-grade wood paneling, skylights, a shower room, multiple beds, a kitchen, stereo system and a whole lot more. This self-contained camper is also about as durable as adventure vehicles come. Plus, it can charge over anything in its path.

Unimog

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5The Unimog is the quintessential heavy-duty expedition vehicle. Manufactured by Mercedes-Benz, this rugged vehicle has portal axles for high ground clearance and flexible frames to handle rough terrain changes.

The Unimog’s powerful off-road capabilities have made it a big hit among adventurers and explorers.

Pinzaugers

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6Similar to Unimogs, Pinzaugers are highly-capable all-terrain vehicles. They were originally designed for military use, but adventurers and expeditionists have taken a shine to them for their off-road capabilities, carrying capacity and durability.

These powerful vehicles can drive up and over just about anything in their way.

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7Engineering whiz Rick Dobbertin built this one-of-a-kind camper out of a stainless-steel milk tank, and drove it from Florida to South America and back again via the Gulf of Mexico in 1995.

It has living quarters inside, and a front dash that looks kind of like it belongs in a spaceship. There’s only one Dobbertin Surface Orbiter in existence, and we wish we owned it.

Conqueror Australia

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8Conqueror Australia’s UEV’s are rugged and versatile off-road camper trailers that have independent suspension systems and loads of cool campers features.

Each model comes with a fold-out kitchen, large hot water heaters, queen-sized beds, and lots more.

Sportsmobile

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9Sportsmobile has been making customizable adventure campers since 1961. They convert Ford, Chevy/GM and Mercedes Benz vans into off-road vehicles.

As you can tell by the Sportsmobile featured above, they can get pretty tricked out.

Ford Push Button Camper

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10Okay, it’s not a rugged all-terrain vehicle, but Ford’s 1958 push button station wagon camper is just too cool to leave off this list.

This one-of-a-kind camper contains a lifeboat and shelter that both unfold on the roof at the push of a button. It also has an unfolding kitchen with a refrigerator, sink and stove, and dozens of other automated gadgets.

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How To Build A Fire & Cook Over It

Here is two tutorials on how to build a fire and to cook over it.

f0297e38b791cd12446aa4653d459f0c_zpse549e773

Tutorial 1

 

wildernesscooking_zpse7c2ef2d

Tutorial 2

 

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Portable Kitchen – Packsack

grub_hub_+camp_kitchen

For many outdoor enthusiasts on this planet camping is still an popular activity. But being out in the wilderness doesn’t have to mean sacrificing all the amenities we take for granted at home. The Grub Hub is a portable kitchen that’s been around for a few years, but we’ve only now discovered.

It packs everything, and yes, even the kitchen sink. No, this isn’t just a bad play on words: it does come with its own sink for washing your dirty dishes. Aside from holding your stove (not included), there are compartments to hold your pots and pans, telescoping rods to hang your lanterns or anything else that can be hung, and even 9 square feet of table surface for you to prepare your meals on.
grub_hub
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Tips on Choosing The Best Field Knife

It doesn’t matter how many knives you have at home. The one you reach for when you’re in the woods—to gut a deer, cut brush, carve a fuzz stick—that’s your field knife, your everyday companion. There’s no one perfect model, but here’s how to pick the ideal features for you.
1) Fixed or Folder?

Field-Knife-2 Field-Knife-5
The traditional choice, a fixed-blade knife is stronger than most folders. With no moving parts, it’s virtually fail-safe, and cleaning is as easy as wiping off grime and wiping on oil. If you need a deep belly for skinning big game, fixed is the primary choice due to the challenge of storing a wide folding blade inside its handle. A folder, on the other hand, makes everyday carry simple: Just pop it in your pocket. The increasing popularity of pocket-clip folders has spawned huge innovation in materials and designs, so the options are breathtaking. Bottom line: Fixed or folder, you can’t lose. But you have to choose.
2) Steel Yourself

Field-Knife-3_0
Basic steel is just iron and carbon. But there are hundreds of alloys. The least you need to know is that the more carbon, the harder the blade and the better it holds an edge—but too much can make a blade brittle. Also, adding chromium prevents rust (stainless steel usually has at least 12 percent), but it can soften the steel. It’s a balancing act. Here’s a breakdown:

Non-Stainless Steel: It rusts easily but makes a great blade if you take care. High-carbon examples (1095, D2) really hold an edge. A few are both hard and tough (A2, CPM 3V, 8670M).

​Stainless Steel: If you want low maintenance, this is the way to go. But low-carbon versions (18/8, 420, 440, 440A, AUS-6) can be too soft to get or keep a fine edge. More carbon or a harder alloy is better (440B and C, AUS-8 and 10, 8Cr14MoV, 154CM).

Powdered Steels: The newest stainless alloys (S30V, Elmax, M390) are made of powderlike granules that are heated to form very hard steels that take a wicked edge. They pretty much have it all—​­corrosion resistance, hardness, and strength. Naturally, you pay for it.

3) Get the Point

Field-Knife-4
Most field knives have a drop point or clip point, either of which may be combined with a deeper belly for skinning. The drop point is ideal for field dressing game without slicing innards. Its thicker tip also helps with separating joints and with heavy camp chores. If your hunting knife will double as a fish cleaner and camp-kitchen slicer, the finer clip point is the better choice, and it’s fine for gutting game as long as you’re careful with the tip.

4) Find the Grind

Field-Knife-5
Likewise, most field knives hew to one of two grinds: hollow or flat. A hollow-ground blade has a concave shape, as if material has been scooped out of the blade’s thickness. It’s easy to resharpen and best for shallow cuts, such as field dressing, cutting hide, and simple camp chores. A flat-ground blade is the more common choice; it is tougher, holds its edge better, and excels at deeper cuts, working around sinew and bone, and chopping food at camp.

Now that you know what to look for, check out our field knife gear test to see which brands of fixed and folder blades are worth their metal.

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