archery | ON TARGET in CANADA

The importance of knowing your bowstrings!

Archers are very specific about the bow they use, the sites they mount and the release they settle on, but often overlooked is the actual bow string. They are as vital to your performance as that of the arrow or even the bow itself. But the question is, how do you select your bowstrings? And how do you know which ones to opt for? Having to answer these questions might become a bit of a challenge, but with some of these helpful guidelines it just might get easier for you.

1.THE 4 GENERAL THINGS YOU NEED TO LOOK FOR

The best kinds of bowstrings have four qualities you need to know about.

They are lightweight
They are strong
They are highly resistant to abrasion
They are moisture-resistant

2.YOU HAVE TO KNOW WHAT MATERIAL YOUR BOWSTRINGS ARE MADE OF

Modern bowstrings are made of different kinds of synthetic fibers, and knowing what they are can be to your advantage.

Dacron: a polyester material that is strong, high-stretch and can last for years. But it’s an outmoded fiber, so wooden bows, older bows and recurve bows, are its best suit. A bowstring made out of Dacron is safe to use on any bow, but results will surely vary.
Kevlar and Vectran: these fibers are made out of polymer. They have a limited-stretch so its arrow speed is faster than Dacron. Kevlar bowstrings, however, can only last for about 1000 shots, and they are known to break without warning. These materials are not fit for modern compound bows.
HMPE (High- modulus-polyethylene): this fiber is a blend of Spectra and Dyneema. It’s lightweight, faster than any of the materials aforementioned, strong, and long lasting. It is the perfect fit for high-performance recurve bows and modern compound bows.

3.WHAT KIND OF WAX YOU SHOULD USE

Whether your bowstring is of superior quality or not, it will fray at one point or another. But if you wax it frequently, you can delay the time in which your bowstring wears out and is completely out of use. I can’t emphasis more on just how important it is to wax your bowstring.

But what kind of wax should you use? I have a couple of pointers here, but if you have more, then please do feel free to share it with us.

Beeswax: If you are using a traditional bowstring, which is made out of plant fibers and animal material, then you should opt for beeswax.

Silicone based wax: Most modern bowstrings come pre-waxed, but no lubricant has ever lasted forever, right? So the second the string starts to feel dry, you have to give it a light coating. Silicone based waxes are ideal for modern bowstrings; it penetrates the material and lubricates the interior as well as the surface of the string.

Some of the most commonly used and perhaps the best kinds of synthetic waxes are Dalton High-Speed Bow Wax Conditioner and Bohning Silicone Wax.

Remember, this may seem like a trivial detail but it could be the difference between success and an fruitless hunt!

Thank you Martin Douglas of Legendary Archery for the great information!

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Posted by Wawang Lake on November 13, 2014 in archery, bow, how to, Wawang Lake Resort

Tags: archery, bow, diy, string, Wawang Lake, Wawang Lake Resort

An adrenaline filled archery moose hunt!

11 Nov

Sometimes the thrill of the hunt gets escalated that much more! This is one of the most adrenaline filled hunts we have seen in years. This hunt was filmed in the Yukon and was executed with great skill…while we promote hunting, we suggest unless you have the skill necessary, do not try this out in the field 🙂

Are you an Ontario resident with a tag for 15A or 15B? We have centrally located accommodations. Book early to avoid disappointment!

moosehuntersjpg

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Posted by Wawang Lake on November 11, 2014 in hunting, hunting equipment, moose, Wawang Lake Resort

Tags: adrenaline, archery, hunt, hunting, moose hunting, moose hunts, Wawang Lake, Wawang Lake Resort, WMU 15A, WMU 15B

The dangers of dry firing your bow

21 Oct

Dry-firing your bow is something you will want to avoid at all costs. To help minimize your chances of dry-firing a bow you should always draw a bow with an arrow in it, and aim it at a target. This way if you do accidentally release the string there is an arrow in it and you have a target to stop the arrow. Also if you are just trying out a bow be sure to draw with an anti-dry-fire release. When in a group of people it is very easy to become side tracked and forget to load your bow with an arrow. It’s always good to double check before you draw your bow

Dry firing a bow is the act of shooting a bow without an arrow. While this may seem harmless to some of us who are just starting out I assure you that this can be one of the most costly mistakes you can make.

The fact of the matter is that it can happen to anyone beginner or expert for many different reasons. Whether it be from ignorance, distractions, or accidental misfire of a release it happens all the time. So the question is what do you do if you accidentally dry-fire your bow.

There are a few outcomes that could happen when a bow is dry-fired, the first is that is that it will appear that nothing has happened to any of your bow. The second scenario is that your string breaks however everything else stays intact. The third possibility is your bowstring, and cables could snap resulting in your limbs breaking and potential debris flying all over the place. This is basically the worst case scenario and can at times be irreparable.

No matter what scenario your bow falls into after being dry-fired, the first thing you will need to do is to get a magnifying glass and a bright light and look over the limbs especially near the cams for any cracking, or splintering. If you find that one of both limbs have cracks or splinters in them then you will have to replace the limbs before you are able to shoot again. Failing to do so will likely cause will render the bow unusable and/or injury.

bowillustration

In any of the other cases where the string breaks and/or the bow limbs shatter, you will first go get medical attention if you need it and then you will need to bring your bow in to a bow repair shop and you will have to replace the limbs,string, and any other broken parts(axles,cams,wheels etc.).

After checking for cracks and splinters in the limbs, take a look at the cams/wheels to make sure that they have not been bent or cracked, again if they are you will need to replace them as soon as possible before you are able to shoot. Next if you were lucky enough to have your string still intact, you will need to check the whole thing for badly frayed portions, cut strands, and badly damaged areas, especially near the axles.
If everything checks out and you were unable to find anything wrong with your bow then you are lucky, and you have 2 options, your first option is to draw the bow(with an arrow) and shoot it. Make note of any weird noises, or vibrations. If you aren’t the risky type then you can bring it into a bow repair shop and they will have the tools and resources to be able to better inspect it for damages.

In closing, dry firing a bow may seem innocent, but in turn can be detrimental and even dangerous. Take your time to ensure longevity of your equipment for years to come and better success rates!

440 lb

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Posted by Wawang Lake on October 21, 2014 in archery, bow, Wawang Lake Resort

Tags: archery, bow, Compound bow, how to, hunting, Wawang Lake, Wawang Lake Resort

Sharpen your bow skill during the off season!

17 Dec

We practice with our bows all summer long, but after opening day its easy to get wrapped up in the hunting and forget about practicing. But even if you’re spending your time in the field and can’t hit the archery range every day, you can still keep your edge. Shooting in hunting situations is obviously different from target shooting. In the real world, weather conditions, shot angles, brush and other obstacles can impact your shot. Also, when the time comes to take a shot during a hunting situation you’re usually either stiff and cold from sitting in a treestand or sucking wind from running up a hill. All this combined with the fact that you must make a clean shot with the first arrow makes it all the more important to keep your shooting skills sharp. Here are a couple tips.

Practice Drawing
One of the biggest challenges to making a “cold shot” is that often the muscles I use for properly drawing my bow are stiff. The simplest way to cure this is to periodically pick a target, draw your bow, aim, hold, and let down your draw. This keeps you loosened up, plus drawing and aiming without actually shooting helps you focus on the target.

Practice Shooting
Although just drawing and aiming will help a lot, the single biggest help is to actually shoot while out hunting. A common practice among traditional shooters is to carry one or two blunt pointed arrows in your quiver so that you can stump shoot in your down time. Stump shooting is fantastic for keeping you warmed up, but unlike just drawing, actually completing your shots will bring your release into play, as well as give you all sorts of angles and situations to practice.

Small game is even better than stumps (grouse and rabbits taste a lot better too). Grouse can be deceivingly tough to hit. You want to aim for the base of the neck or the head. Sometimes they flush at the shot, but grouse will go in the direction that their head is pointing, so if you use a snaro point, you can either take their head off or hit them in the body as they flush. The best thing about grouse is they often give you extremely challenging shots, and if you can become consistent at taking them, you will be ready for the big game (make sure to check your local regulations before taking any small game with a bow).

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Posted by Wawang Lake on December 17, 2013 in archery, hunting equipment, Wawang Lake Resort

Tags: archery, Bows & Arrows, Compound bow, hunting, Outdoors, Recreation, Wawang Lake, Wawang Lake Resort

Gear up: Bow Hunting 101:pt 1 The Parts of Compound Bow

15 Nov

The lure of archery hunting has been an age old tradtion. From the evolution of spear to projectile, a sport was born!

Many people (including myself) have been daunted by the task of choosing their first bow. From draw length to pull pounds, this choice can be pivitol to a successful purchase.

There are many manufacturers and models being introduced yearly boasting a wide array of different accessories, colors, cam numbers and composites but in general, most compound bows come equipped with the same basics.

Study the image to the right to help learn the parts of the compound bow. Click on a compound bow part for glossary definition.

Parts of a Compound Bow

With this basic outline, you can build your understanding and move forward into the purchasing stage. Remember, before attempting to harvest any animal, practice practice practice! More times than not, an amateur archery hunter will skip this step and either miss or wound an animal needlessly 🙂

If you are anxious to use your bow immediately, join an archery club…not only will you learn the skills needed, but you may even meet others that are looking forward to hunting and may request your company 🙂

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Posted by Wawang Lake on November 15, 2013 in archery, bow, Wawang Lake Resort

Tags: archery, Compound bow, hunting, Sport, Sporting Goods, Wawang Lake, Wawang Lake Resort

Bear Down! The legend of Squeekules.

05 Nov

It often amazes me what people do in their stands while in wait. Some nap, some eat, some even make shadow puppets….not Jamie, nope not Jamie.

Jamie’s hunt began just like everyone elses, with optimism and excitement. He knew what he was waiting for and he was prepared for what to do when it got there…..boy did it take its time!!

As he sat scanning the forest around him for any sign of movement, he spotted something from the corner of his eye. I little red squirrel was climbing down the tree that was just six inches from his left. Slowly this little red fellow crept while keeping a watchful eye on Jamie. He made his way slowly onto the branch directly by his face and looked him in the eye. Jamie gave little notice at first until he realized that this critter wasn’t leaving…he was perfectly happy to size up this human that was hanging around one of ‘his’ trees!

There they both sat in silence for a minute or two looking eye to eye, sizing each other up. Finally Squeekules retreated and carried on down his tree to visit the forest floor. He scurried around the moss and even over to the bait to check out its bounty. Jamie watched as the little red fellow ran from one log to another and halfway up one tree and down to the next. It amazed him that his new buddy was always in view. It was really nice to have a distraction while waiting for his prey.

As the day came to a close and not a bear had been spotted, Jamie retreated down his tree to the sound of Squeekules chattering him a good bye.

The next day started much the same with that slow climb and area inspection. It didn’t take long for his little buddy to return and fill him in on the mornings events. There the unlikely pair sat, looking at the bait and scanning the horizon. The clouds started to close over and the winds picked up. As the cold rain began to fall, with one last look, Squeekules climbed his tree to find some dry cover. Jamie wasn’t so lucky. There he sat in the rain as the temperatures dropped faster and faster. It was cold and dark but he sat vigilant. By the end of the day, he was cold, wet and it had appeared that the bear had won again. He climbed down his stand and made his way out thinking about the time that he had spent up in that tree and his optimism was beginning to wane. Would it be just as cold tomorrow?

As the sun rose the third morning of the hunt, the temperature was still crisp and those mid forty chills were setting in. As he dressed for his hopefully short day in the stand, Jamie decided that he would change his weapon of choice. Retired was his bow and up next was his muzzle loader. He wanted to ensure that he would have a longer range if so much as one black ear made an appearance.

He made his way to his familiar perch and was happy to see that little Squeekules had already arrived. There they both sat for a couple of minutes scanning the horizon for any sign of interruption. The bait had not been hit and the area seemed quiet to any noise other than the rattle of the leaves. Squeekules gave one last look before heading out for his morning routines. Jamie sat in wait, the day stretching on. He could see the little critter bouncing from one tree to the next and back again. He seemed to be circling the bait and climbing the trees only to come back down again. As Jamie stood to stretch his legs, here came Squeek, right up his tree and right beside him. He seemed to just be checking in and making sure Jamie wasnt leaving his post and as Jamie sat again, that little squirrel jumped right onto his leg and ran down back to the bark of the tree! Boy this little buddy was getting bold.

The day was dragging on and his friend had decided to take up space all over Jamie’s tree. He would leave to take care of his tasks and return to keep Jamie company, at times right behind his head and even right behind his back and against the tree. The company was welcomed and the stand was becoming more bearable.

As his attention began to wane from his bait, Jamie began to search for his camera. He desperately was hoping to catch a picture of his new friend. As he shuffled through his bag, Squeek had began to make his way back to his tree and climbed up halfway up only to be interrupted. Something was there….it was close and the squirrel knew it. As Jamie’s attention was focused on that camera, Squeekules had run to the east side of the bait. He made his way halfway up the tree and sat firm on a branch watching the trail. Suddenly his tail stood firm and Squeek gripped his tree as he let out a loud chattering war cry. Jamie looked to his direction and there it was….

That bear ambled in slowly but determined directly below Squeek. That squirrel stayed braced to the branch and looked to Jamie for acknowledgement. The two friends knew that the time had come. The bruin was within range of the bait and began to deviate directly toward Jamie’s tree! With a knowing look to the branches, Jamie’s eyes met those of this boar, its massive head making those beady eyes look even more pointed. His hands held steady on his gun as the bear slowly turned and began back to the bait. He had decided that Jamie was not a threat and his need for a snack was much more pressing.

A shot rang out and Squeek made a hasty retreat as that bear took its final breath. That was it, the hunt was over and Jamie was proud of his 450lb harvest. As Jamie brought his bear back and spoke of the hunt, it seemed that the hunt itself was a minor detail in the story of his unlikely friendship with a little red warrior that spent his days keeping him company and making that wait BEARable!

WOW what a paw!

446lb monster!

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Posted by Wawang Lake on November 5, 2013 in black bear, hunting, Wawang Lake Resort

Tags: archery, Bait, baiting, bear, Bear-baiting, big game, black bear, canada, hunting, ontario, outfitter, predetor, Wawang Lake, Wawang Lake Resort

Art of Archery – A Timeline through Ages Infographic

25 Oct

A very interesting find! Neat read!

Zero Moment Of Truth

Global Gear has presented wonderful Infographic titled ‘Art of Archery – A Timeline through Ages’ with the big idea of highlighting the history of archery and how it has evolved over a period of time.

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Posted by Wawang Lake on October 25, 2013 in archery, Wawang Lake Resort

Tags: archery, Bow Hunting, Wawang Lake, Wawang Lake Resort

On Target: How to make your own arrows

17 Sep

While doing some of my own research, I came across a fantastic article for all of you archers out there that have wondered about manufacturing your own arrows.

This article is reproduced from Edersbows.com, take some time to check them out 🙂

Building your own arrows allows you to save about 5 to 1 0 dollars per dozen, but there’s an even better reason for building your own. You can experiment with all the components, with the various fletching styles and shaft sizes until you find the perfect arrow for your bow and your hunting or 3-D shooting requirements.

Building arrows is easy and fun, not to mention the satisfaction you’ll gain from taking game with arrows you’ve crafted yourself. Anyone can do it – and do it well. Armed with only a few basic tools and the information offered here, you’ll have no problem turning raw shafts into top-quality hunting arrows.

Nock Installation

Year’s ago nocks were all glued on, now most arrows offer pressure-fit nocks that fit snugly but are turnable. Tunable nocks are definitely the way to go. These systems will make tuning a lot easier, and they hold up to more hard shooting than will glue-on nocks.

Assuming you aren’t going to paint (crest) your arrows, nock installation is the first step in the arrow building process. Use hot melt glue or epoxy when installing bushings into aluminum. When installing them in (or over) carbon shafts, use a rubber-based epoxy such as that available from Beman or Arizona Archery Enterprises (AAE).

Regular glue-on nocks should be pressed firmly into place (without glue) until after the fletching has been attached. When the arrow is finished you can rotate the nocks to the proper orientation so the fletching clears your rest and then glue them in place. Bohning Fletch- Tite works fine for this.

Apply The Fletching

You need a fletching jig, but it doesn’t have to be fancy. I’ve had good luck with the $20 plastic Martin jig I bought more than 10 years ago. Other good ones are made by Bohning, Bitzenburger and Grayling. You have three clamp options: left helical, right helical and straight

(no helical). For hunting and 3-D shooting, right helical is the most popular choice. If you’ll be using feathers, make sure to order feathers from the same wing as the clamp (right helical takes right wing). Vanes are manufactured straight and can be used with any clamp, so you don’t have to specify left or right when ordering.

One of the best fletching adhesive I’ve used for vanes is Fast-Set Gel made by AAE. This is a super-glue product that sets up in only 10 seconds allowing you to use a single-clamp jig and still fletch a dozen arrows in mere minutes. Fast-Set Gel will work on all shaft styles except AFC’s film-dipped carbon arrows, which require a traditional cement such as Bohning’s Fletch-Tite. Of course, Fletch-Tite will also work on aluminum arrows but takes about 10 minutes per fletching to set-up before you can remove the clamp. Fletch-Tite is still the best choice for feather fletching, however.

Place your fletching in the clamp so that its back edge will be about 3/4 inch ahead of the nock taper or nock bushing on your arrow. Adjust the back of the magnet on your jig (the magnet holds the clamp in place while the glue dries) inward or outward until the tail of the fletching sits squarely on top of the arrow. Next, adjust the forward end of the magnet to achieve the desired amount of helical. Easton’s technical representatives recommend four to five degrees of helical. I use a bit more myself – probably closer to seven degrees – but this is only on large diameter aluminum arrows. On smaller diameter carbon arrows I stay closer to Easton’s standard.

When using a straight clamp, (as opposed to a helical clamp) you don’t have as much lee-way and must either install your fletching perfectly straight or with a very slight off-set.

After your fletching is installed, apply a small dab of adhesive to both ends of each for a little added insurance against tearing loose.

You have more freedom to experiment with your fletching style and degree of helical than with any other aspect of arrow building, but it’s still best to observe a few general ground-rules. When making aluminum arrows for hunting, stick with four to five inch fletching. Five inch is a bit better because (in theory at least) it offers a small amount of added stability which can make a difference when shooting broadheads.

Carbon arrows, because of their smaller diameter, work best with shorter fletching (four inch is a good starting point) or you can run into a contact problem when trying to pass long helical fletching through the narrow gap in your rest. You can also experiment with various fletching orientations, such as 70/110 degree four-fletch, (you make this change by inserting a different indexing template into your fletching jig). But the basic 120 degree, three-fletch will do just fine under almost every shooting situation.

Cutting Arrows To Length
Draw an arrow and have someone mark it about a half to 3/4 inch in front of the rest. Cutting arrows is easy with the right equipment, but with the wrong equipment it can be a real headache. For limited quantities of aluminum arrows you can get by with a small rotating pipe cutter. I’ve done it a few times, but I’ve also made some pretty rough cuts, and basically ruined some arrows, in the process. You’re far better off pooling your money with a couple of buddies and getting an electric cut-off tool. You can also take your arrows to a pro shop (that’s equipped with an electric cut-off tool) to have them sized – usually for a price.

Installing Inserts and Outserts
Inserts and outserts (outserts are used with some types of carbon arrows) shouldn’t be taken for granted. Consistent accuracy with broadheads can be difficult to achieve when these components fit loosely. Inserts and outserts should install without any free-play. Usually you don’t have too many options with outserts – you get what the arrow maker offers – but you do have options with inserts. I’ve had good luck with aluminum inserts from Easton and Saunders and composite inserts from AAE. Inserts should have a light press-fit with the inside of the shaft so that each broadhead you screw in will line up perfectly with the shaft.

Aluminum inserts used in aluminum or ACC carbon arrows should be installed with hot-melt glue. Composite inserts in aluminum work best with a rubber-based epoxy, and the same applies for aluminum into carbon (Beman ICS or Gold Tip Graphite XT arrows) or when installing metal outserts on conventional all-carbon shafts. When you’re finished you can install a broadhead and spin test your arrows to make sure the inserts are properly aligned.

Take some time to visit http://www.eders.com/ to view their catalogue of parts and equiptment to assist you in your build.

Armed with the information above, you could now have a weekend hobby 🙂

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Posted by Wawang Lake on September 17, 2013 in bow hunting, hunting equipment, Wawang Lake Resort

Tags: archery, arrows, equipment, hunting, Wawang Lake, Wawang Lake Resort

Bear Down! The legend of Squeekules.

05 Sep