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This unexpectedly placed hidden gun storage solution stays hidden in plain sight while providing a large amount of bullet proof storage space.
Utilize the wasted space underneath your coffee table with some hidden gun storage.
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Many people dream one day of harvesting that trophy bear but put it off
for one reason or another….time to put the excuses on hold!
For in depth hunting information check out our Hunt Booklet: http://www.flipsnack.com/wawangresort/hunt-information-booklet-fdc8w9nxq.html
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Deer have always been prey species. They use all of their senses to avoid being killed by predators like coyotes, wolves, bears, hunters, and automobiles. Their most refined defense is their nose. Whitetail deer are believed to have noses one hundred times more sensitive than a dog’s. Uneducated deer are usually not exceedingly wary of human scent. But if you want to get close to a mature buck you’re going to have to control your scent. Here are five great tips for controlling human odor while deer hunting.
Scent Control Clothing The first step is scent control clothing. Some clothing utilizes activated carbon, others use silver to eliminate odor. Just about everything from base layers, socks, gloves, pants, jackets, hats, and facemasks are made to control odor. Of course, rubber boots are also an important addition. It doesn’t matter what you wear if you don’t take care of your clothing. If you’re wearing your scent free clothing in the truck or during breakfast you might as well wrap yourself in bacon. Don’t put on your hunting clothing until you’re in the field and have everything else ready to go.
Don’t wash your scent free clothing in normal detergent. Use scent free, phosphate free, UV brightener-free detergent. In fact, wash a load of your normal clothes in this detergent before doing a load of your hunting clothes just to get any residual detergent out of the machine. Once clean, clothing should be stored in a sealed, scent-free container.
De-Scenting Shower Your body is constantly creating odor. Bacteria is the chief cause of human odor and most scent killing soap is designed to kill bacteria. Lather your entire body and leave the soap on for about a minute before rinsing off. Letting the soap sit on your body will allow it to kill more bacteria. Be sure to wash a supply of towels with your scent free laundry detergent too. Before dressing, apply scent free antiperspirant.
Dirty Mouth One of the most bacteria rich environments on your body is your mouth. As you exhale, much of the scent from your mouth is dispersed into the air. Brush your teeth with unscented baking soda toothpaste at home and just before going into the field. Plaque is a chief producer of scent. Regular visits to the dentist can help control plaque and in turn, control scent. Chewing gum flavored with vanilla, apple, or mint can mask your scent.
Scent-Eliminating Sprays Just about everybody sprays down before hunting these days. But are you doing a good enough job? Buy your spray in bulk at the beginning of the season and don’t be shy about using it. Spray down at the truck and again in the stand. Spray down everything including yourself, your equipment, decoys, calls, and anything else you may have with you.
Using Scents There are two basic types of scents; cover scent and lures. I have seen deer lure scents work but personally avoid them. Using a deer lure scent is essentially asking deer to use their nose at a heightened level. Think about walking into your house when something really good is on the stove. You try to figure out what it is that you are smelling and are very aware of the scents in your home. If you come home before dinner is on the stove your house just smells like it always does and you’re probably not thinking about scent at all. The same principle applies for deer in my opinion. I do like cover scents but I don’t buy commercially produced scents. I prefer using scents from my hunting area. For example, we have junipers, apple trees, and various pines scattered throughout the property. I’ll use branches and apples to mask my scent. I’ve also been known to walk through cow pies on the way into my stand.
You’re never going to completely eliminate your scent. But if you can control it well, you can make a buck and possibly even a bear think your 200 yards away when you’re really just 20 yards away.
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Always be cautious using a tree stand. As hunters begin to set up tree stands as part of their preparation, safety is still rule number one Whether you are scouting a location, trimming shooting lanes and putting up your tree stand, even on a trial basis, use the same precautions you would during hunting season.
Use a lineman-style belt in addition to a full-body harness when first putting a tree stand in place. This minimizes the chance of falls and potential injury, and, always select a healthy, straight tree for placement.
Other recommendations:
Never carry anything as you climb — use a haul line to raise and lower equipment.
As with any piece of equipment, tree stands need inspection before use.
Replace:
Leaving a tree stand up from one season to the next has some inherent problems that outweigh any convenience. When a tree stand is exposed to the elements due to long-term placement, it may have damaged straps, ropes and attachment cords — any of which may potentially lead to breakage and failure.
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Archery is a sport that involves the use of a bow and arrow, This sport is hundreds of years old and is even featured in the Olympics. The actions in archery utilize several main muscle groups in the body, including the triceps, which sit at the back of your upper arm, the deltoid muscles in your shoulders and the latissimus dorsi muscles in the lower back. To improve your archery skills, include exercises that target these muscles in your workout.
Dumbbell one-arm lateral raises strengthen the deltoid muscles, which are used to provide strength and power for holding and pulling back the bow in archery. Stand straight with your feet shoulder-width apart, your right hand holding onto a stationary object on your right and your left hand holding a dumbbell straight down so it’s resting in front of your pelvis. Slowly raise your left arm up to the side, continuing until your elbow is at shoulder-level. Lower it back down, repeat and then switch arms.
Spending time on the rowing machine is well worth it if you want to improve muscles for archery, because it works all of the primary muscles used in the sport including the deltoids, latissimus dorsi and triceps. Sit on the seat with your feet strapped in securely. Keep your back straight and hold onto the handle. Slowly push off with your feet, sliding back until your legs are almost fully extended. Return to your starting position and repeat.

The overhead triceps extension is one of the most effective exercises for the triceps muscles. Stand straight up with your feet close together, one slightly in front of the other and both flat on the floor. Extend your arms fully above your head, grasping the top of a dumbbell with both hands. While keeping your upper arms beside your head, slowly flex your arms, lowering your forearms behind you toward your back until you feel a light stretch in your triceps. Raise your arms back up above you to complete one rep. Repeat.
The barbell pullover exercise targets the latissimus dorsi muscle in the back, but it also works the triceps and deltoids, making it an integral muscle exercise for archery. Lie your upper back perpendicular on a flat weight bench, your legs bent in front of you on a right angle with your feet flat on the floor. Grasp a barbell, position your arms so they’re extended straight above you and keep your hands aligned with your shoulders. While keeping your arms straight during the movement, move your arms back in a slow, controlled motion, until the barbell is directly behind your head. Then, return to your starting position. Repeat.
The latissimus dorsi is the largest muscle of the back and is one of the main muscles in the body used in archery, primarily during the drawing motion of the bow. Lat pulldown exercises are most effective for targeting this muscle, so try the cable close-grip pulldown. On the seat of a lat pulldown machine, place your feet flat on the floor below you and position your hands above you while grasping onto the parallel cable attachment. Engage your core, pull down on the cable attachment and then return it until your arms are fully extended. Repeat.
Even with all the right exercises, if you’re not using the right amount of weight or completing the proper number of sets and reps, you’re not going to get the results you’re hoping for. Start off with a weight you can manage, and only increase the amount of weight you’re using when you can complete a full set of 12 reps while maintaining proper form the entire time. Gradually work up to completing three sets of 12 reps.
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Paracord can be an awesome tool in your preparedness arsenal. This durable nylon rope can be tied into tons of different designs including bracelets, strengthened cords, pouches and more. If you’re in an emergency, you simply unwind the strong cord and use it to bind, haul or anything else that you might need.
What is Paracord?

Paracord, also known as parachute cord, is a soft, lightweight nylon rope that was originally used for parachuting. Typically, 550 paracord (which is the paracord used for our bracelets) is made of 32 strands of nylon sheath on the outside and seven strands of 2-ply nylon yarns on the inside (the “guts”). The 550 paracord is the same made for the government and has a minimum breaking strength of 550 lbs.
While paracord started out as a parachuters tool, people quickly recognized its usefulness in other areas. Since the cord is quick-drying, rot- and mildew-resistant, it’s great for many purposes. Military units use it for securing packs, hanging covers and tents. Many military personnel even use the guts as fishing line.
Check out these designs:
Bracelets
Paracord Snake Design
Paracord Woven Watchband
Paracord Keychain
Paracord Belt Design
Paracord Bracelet Design
• About 10 feet of Paracord
• Lighter
• Tape Measure
• Side release buckle
• Scissors
1. Measure the diameter of your wrist by wrapping a single line of paracord around your wrist. Make sure it’s nice and snug and with a marker, make a line across the paracord while it is wrapped around your wrist. Straighten out the paracord and measure the line. This will be used for reference later.
2. Take the 10 foot line of paracord and fold it in half.
3. String the two loose ends through the male end of the buckle and pull them through the loop that the 10-foot line makes at the other end. Pull it tight and it should look like this:

4. Measure the line to the diameter of your wrist and place the female end of the buckle.

5. Position the bracelet with the female buckle at the top. The two loose ends of paracord should be coming up through the buckle.
6. Take the left paracord line and pull it under the two lines of the paracord bracelet. Then place it over the top of the right loose end.
7. Then take the loose end on the right and place it over the top of the two bracelet strands. Then pull it through the loop that you made on the left side with the left loose end.
8. Pull the two loose ends tight so they tighten against the buckle.

For the next section, you’re going to basically repeat steps 6-8 but start with the opposite end.
9. Take the loose end on the right side and pull it underneath the two strands of bracelet. Make sure it’s on top of the loose left end.
10. Then take the loose end on the left and place it over the top of the two bracelet strands. Then pull it through the loop that you made on the right side with the right loose end.
11. Pull the two loose ends tight so they tighten against the previous knot.

Repeat
12. Repeat steps 6-11 until the paracord reaches the end of the bracelet.
13. If you need more room to braid, simply hold the male buckle firmly and pull the knots down the line.
Finishing the bracelet
14. Take your loose cords and thread them through the remaining slit of the male buckle.
15. Slightly lift the last knot that you made and pull the two loose ends through the loop.
16. Cut the loose ends close (about ¼ inches) to the end of the loop and seal them off by using a lighter.

Thanks to paravival.com for many of these ideas.
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While doing some research, I came across a fantastic article that outlines the starting point for any new hunter. We have all been there, wanting to do but not knowing where to start…..here is a fantastic push off point
Sean McCosh (DuckBuckGoose) – PHJ ProStaff – Cincinnati, OH
Want to learn how to hunt but don’t know where to start? You’re not alone. There are thousands of people who have recently become interested in hunting, many of which have never even shot a gun.

For many, that’s because we’ve been experiencing a food renaissance in America. People are becoming aware of the downsides and potential health risks associated with commercially raised meat and highly processed foods. As result, there is a renewed interest in getting back to basics and consuming locally harvested “real food” that you hunt, grow or gather yourself. As a lifelong hunter, I welcome this resurgence and the new hunters that come with it – because the more people who hunt, the more interested voters we have to fight for our right to hunt and help us protect important wildlife habitat for the future generations. Plus, as hunters, we love to share our passion for hunting and the outdoors with others…it’s in our nature. My bet is, once you discover the excitement, satisfaction, connectedness to nature and sustenance that hunting offers, you’ll want to share your passion for it too.
Hunter Safety Course
I was lucky. My Dad, my grandfather and my uncles were all hunters. They taught me from an early age the principles of gun safety, how to shoot a gun and to be an ethical hunter. I was blessed to have that opportunity, but if you didn’t, not to worry. Chances are your state offers (and probably even requires) a hunter safety course for new hunters.
I took the Ohio hunters safety course when I was a kid and, although it was a long time ago, I can still remember being enthralled by the class and excited to take the test at the end, so I could finally get my hunting license and hunt alongside my Dad. If you are not sure what the laws are in your state, here is listing of the hunter education requirements for various states. In my opinion, the classes are interesting and fun and can teach the basics of everything from firearm safety to outdoor skills, to animal anatomy and public vs. private property rights laws.
Upon taking a hunting course, you’ll soon discover that there’s much more to hunting than simply walking in the woods and shooting an animal. You may be surprised that a very a diverse cross-section of the population is take hunting courses – ranging from young kids who come from a family of hunters, to recent immigrants, to “seasoned” foodies who are finally ready to see exactly where their food comes from. If you want to get a head start and take an online hunter education course before you take your state’s official course (if offered and required) you can do so online at this site from the International Hunter Education Association. In addition to what you learn in these courses, you can also learn a lot by signing up for ProHuntersJournal.com and picking the brains of hunters in our community. It is 100% free, so if you’re not a member, click here to join now.
Choosing a Gun and Shooting Practice
Again, I was lucky. My Dad was a knowledgeable hunter who knew exactly what I needed to get started hunting and when I was ready to progress to “the next level” by moving up to a bigger gun or a more challenging hunt. But if you are an adult just getting into hunting, the first thing you have to do is decide what animal or animals you want to hunt, because that will determine what sort of gun (or possibly bow) you’ll be using.
Once you determine this, I suggest reaching out to an experienced hunter of your chosen game, to get their advice. If you know someone who hunts, there’s a good chance they will be willing to take you under their wing and maybe even let you borrow a gun after a little training. If you don’t know anyone who hunts these animals, not to worry. As I mentioned, hunters love to bring new people into the sport and share advice, so try reaching out to hunters in online message board areas of sites like this one, or by talking to a trustworthy sales person at a reputable sporting goods store or outfitter. If you go into a store to look at guns, you may want to approach it simply as a fact-finding mission at first, and make that clear to the sales person. Since guns and hunting gear can be expensive, a good first step could be to call up a shooting or hunting club near you and ask if they have the type of hunting gun you’re interested in available to rent, and if they offer shooting lessons. That way you can learn more about the gun and see if you like shooting before you jump in with both feet and spend hundreds of dollars.
Whichever gun you choose, you will need to practice gun safety always and practice your marksmanship often, to become an ethical hunter. These points cannot be stressed enough. I’d rather not shoot an animal at all than to shoot it poorly and run the risk of badly injuring but not killing it. The ethical hunter strives to be a great marksman and practices accordingly.
When I was first learning how to hunt, my Grandpa would often say… “Don’t point your gun at anything you don’t plan on shooting and don’t shoot anything you don’t plan on eating”. Of course the “eating” part didn’t apply to target practice, but there’s a whole lot of wisdom packed into that simple lesson of his.
Learning How to Hunt
There is no substitute for experience when it comes to hunting. So, if you don’t have experience yourself, try to borrow it. Approach the sport with a hunger for knowledge, a childlike curiosity and an open mind. If you do, and you are not afraid to ask questions, my bet is you can quickly find a mentor that will help you learn the basics, answer the many questions you might have and maybe even take you hunting.
My friend Jason is a phenomenal duck and goose caller. One morning this past season he was hunting our duck blind with another friend who is literally a world-class caller and has won several goose calling competitions and titles. As Jason was backing his duck boat into the water that pre-dawn morning, they saw a couple of new hunters clumsily attempting to put their tiny skiff in the water also, on what to them was an unfamiliar lake. It didn’t take long for Jason to realize that these guys didn’t know what they were doing, and that they were literally risking their lives by attempting to cross the icy waters of the lake in that tiny, overloaded boat. So, instead of lecturing them about what they were doing wrong, he simply walked up and invited these guys to join him in his blind. After all, they had plenty of extra room (and he didn’t feel like rescuing them from the icy waters when there were ducks to be hunted). Quickly realizing Jason was an experienced hunter, these two guys gladly joined. Their willingness to learn would be richly rewarded.
I was on the phone with Jason throughout that day to give and get field reports. Their hunt started out slow with very few ducks in the area. But, it ended up being a massive migration day for Canada geese. Realizing that, Jason ended up pulling most of his duck decoys and changing his decoy spread to set up primarily for geese. As huge flocks of geese started to come onto the lake, he and his championship goose caller friend put on a real calling clinic for these new hunters, which resulted in a 4 man limit of geese on their first “real” waterfowl hunt. Jason said the look on their faces was priceless when they realized the situation they had fallen into by being open to learning from more experienced hunters.
If you can’t find experienced hunters in your own social circles, reach out to your local division of wildlife office and ask them if they can point you to any local resources. Many Division of Wildlife or Natural Resources officers are hunters themselves and are very willing to share information to help you be successful. Another strategy is to contact the local chapter of wildlife conservation organizations like: The National Wild Turkey Federation, The Quality Deer Management Association, Ducks Unlimited, Delta Waterfowl, Rocky Mountain Elk Foundation or Pheasants Forever. The type of organization you choose to call will obviously depend on the game animal you want to pursue and where you live, but you’ll find that local volunteers for these organizations are passionate about hunting, and about bringing new hunters into their organizations. They can be a tremendous resource.
There’s one last point I need to make about learning from experience. Once you learn the basics by leveraging the experiencing of others, you’ll quickly start to realize that you’ll be learning something new on every single hunt, based on your own experience. This is one of the most rewarding aspects to hunting, because no matter how long you’ve been hunting, with every trip to the woods, every day on the water and with every animal encounter, you’ll start to pick up insights that will help you make better future decisions and make you a smarter hunter.
After the Shot
For many new hunters, the question of “what do I do with an animal once I shoot it?” is their biggest source of trepidation about getting into hunting. Well, it is a great question and there’s more to it than meets the eye. Your first challenge is to successfully recover the downed game. Once you shoot an animal, recovering it needs to become your first priority (after safety, of course). I’ve seen hunters get hopped up on adrenaline and side tracked by seeing more ducks in the air, or other deer approaching – causing them to take their focus off of animals they had already shot. This can lead to lost game, which is never a good thing and one of the most unfortunate situations in hunting.
How you recover an animal depends on the species. For big game like deer, elk or bear, it is best to give the animal time to expire before you pursue it. If you make a great shot, sometimes you’ll see the animal go down and expire within your view, but it doesn’t always happen that way. There may be tracking involved, which is just another fun and challenging part of the hunting experience. If you’re hunting small game or fowl, you can and usually should go after them right away, to recover them wherever they dropped. Sometimes a quick follow up shot is needed to quickly and ethically kill the animal.
Once you recover a big game animal like a deer, you’ll need to tag it – which basically just means you put a tag with your name and some basic information about the harvest of the animal onto the animal itself. This is a legal requirement in most, if not all states in the U.S.
Then, whether it is big game or small, you’ll eventually need to clean and process the animal. For big game, like a deer, you will likely need to field dress or “gut” the deer out in the field. This serves two purposes. First, it helps cool down the body cavity more quickly, which helps preserve the quality of the meat. Secondly, it removes a lot of weight from the animal, which will help you drag it out of the woods to your vehicle more easily.
As for the question of how-to field dress a deer, how to clean a duck or any other animal, thankfully we live in an information age where practically everything you need to know can be found on the internet. That is, if you don’t have a friend or family member to show you first-hand. From field dressing to plucking to processing, a simple search on Google or YouTube will deliver links to dozens of videos that can help walk you through the process.
When I shot my first deer with a shotgun as a teenager, I was fortunate to have a family friend help me field dress it. Then I took it to a meat processor to butcher it. But when I finally took up (and fell in love with) bow hunting years later, I had no one around to show me what to do when I killed my first doe. Fortunately, I was prepared and had a step-by-step guide to field dressing printed from the web and put it in a plastic bag in my backpack – so I’d be ready if I was fortunate enough to harvest an animal. Good preparation is a hugely important part of successful hunting.
Getting Started Starts Now
When I decided to take up bow hunting, I was inspired by simply shooting a friend’s old compound bow at a local archery range. There was something about taking aim and releasing that arrow that resonated with something deep inside of me. Simply by shooting his bow, I realized that even though I’d never hunted with one, I was in-fact a bow hunter. So that day at the archery range I set a goal. I said to myself and to my friend, “I am going to buy a bow of my own, practice and kill a deer with it next season”. Mind you, although I was a long-time small-game and bird hunter, I had never hunted with a bow. My goal was to figure it all out…the equipment, the strategies and how to prepare for a hunt in ways that would help make me successful. So that’s what I did. Since then I’ve taken about twenty deer with a bow. I’ve fed my family with several of those deer and donated others to local food pantries or others in need. I am a bow hunter. A sportsman. A provider. And it all started with simple, clearly stated goal.
What’s your game? What’s your goal? It is time to get started!
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A big bear swaggers and walks with attitude. He doesn’t jump at every sound like a small bear will. A big bear doesn’t have to; he believes he’s got nothing to fear. Once you’ve spotted your bear on the bait site, it’s time to get serious about analyzing how that bear is behaving.
It is important to note that long before you judge the size of the bear, you must judge the sex of that bear and here are some things to take into consideration:
A big, old sow will have all, or more correctly, almost all of the physical characteristics of a big, old boar. She’ll have the nasty looking face that’s seen one too many years in the ring, the potbelly and the sway back.
Watch to see if the bear stands on his hind legs and rubs his back on a tree, that’s a boar. If it walks along and straddles small trees, wiping its scent on that tree, it’s a boar. If it stands up and breaks saplings over its shoulder, it’s a boar. If it encounters another bear and gives chase, it’s a boar and if it is following a smaller bear, it’s a boar.
SCALE: There is one last general appearance tip to judging black bear that makes the top three in importance, and that is scale. A big bear looks big . . . but so does a closer, smaller bear. Here’s a help tip on how to gauge more accurately. If the bear is 150 yards away but the hunter thinks the bear is 200 yards away, the hunter will overestimate the bear’s relative size by somewhere near 25 percent. In other words, the hunter is in for a serious case of ground shrink when he walks up to his bear. TIP: Let the bear get as close to you as possible and preferably on the bait itself. The closer the bear, the less chance there is of misjudging the distance to relative size.
SPECIFIC TIPS FOR JUDGING BLACK BEARS: If the bear fails any one of the above general conditions, then it’s advisable to pass up on it or let the bear walk. It’s tough and you could be wrong, but at least there isn’t a dead small bear lying on the ground. Call it a personal aversion to guilt.
BODY SHAPE: Bigger bear are older bears, and like most of us, they don’t have the svelte bodies they once did. They tend to look “heavy” and out of shape. Remember, they monopolize the best feed and habitat, and therefore exert less energy to live.
HEAD SHAPE: A big bear (boar) will have a deeper, wider and longer snout than a smaller bear or a female. His ears will appear to be wide apart and small. If he is aware of you and looking your way, his ears won’t stand up on top of his head like a dog’s ears, they’ll seem to be aimed out to the side of his head. A big bear will have well developed “bulging” muscles on the top of his head.
LEGS: A big bear will have massively developed front shoulders. His shoulders will look big and burly. A sow’s wrist will pinch in directly above the foot. Not so with a boar. The lower forearm, wrist and the foot on a big boar are all the same width. A big bear often appears to have shorter legs because the body is so much thicker, but keep in mind that the best-scoring bears for the records book are often the lankier looking, longer-bodied bears.
There are bear that have meatier heads; bear that look great and are great trophies, but that don’t score well. There are others that have short skulls, block- headed beasts that look impressive, but that don’t score well at all and there are lanky, skinny bears with donkey faces that score like the devil, but that a hunter seriously looking for a records book bear wouldn’t walk across the street for. Black bear morphology is just too darn diversified to make a science out of judging.
The best way to hunt for a record boar is to simply shoot the bear that looks good to you and that hopefully you’ll appreciate all the time and effort you put in for the hunt. If it’s got a nice hide, be happy with your animal. If it has long claws and weighs a ton, good for you and congratulations. If it isn’t as big as you’d like, don’t fret, you’re not alone and the rug on your wall will still look great. If it happens to be one of those rare few bears that has grown a skull that qualifies for the record books, thank your guide for the good fortune that made that bear come to the bait site.
To easily judge, remember:
Watch the bear’s behavior around the bait – small bears will be skittish and afraid of a larger bruin in the area.
Look for a log around the bait and use it as a reference, check to see the length and height of the log before climbing into your stand. When the bear enters the bait site use the size of the log to help determine the overall size of the bear.
SKULL MEASURING
Hope this information helps develop your judging skill on your next hunt, and, good luck out in the field.
For further information, or, to book your next bear hunt please contact us at:
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