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Category Archives: hunting

Nice Rack: Shed Hunting

In recent years, we have seen an increase in the interest of “shed hunting”.  Shed hunting refers to searching for (and hopefully locating) the shed antlers of moose, deer, elk etc.  This is not only fantastic pass time, but can be pretty trying at times.

shed

Why shed hunt?  They’re going to drop anyway, so you might as well find them.  After that, they can be sold, collected, used in crafts, or as decorations – whatever!  You don’t need a tag or weapon to harvest these items nor do you need to waste time field dressing in return for your trophy(s).

shedart

Moose lose their antlers anytime between December and March.  The majority of the moose drop them in January.  Most find the first sheds in late December while bird hunting.

shedsnow

Here are some tips for success:

1.  When the snow gets here, look for high concentrations of tracks – just like you would deer hunting.  A few drops of blood now and then is a good sign the pedicles are getting ready.

2.  Follow those secondary logging roads (winter roads) either on snowshoes or on snowmobile, again looking for tracks and signs of feeding.

3.  Once the snow gets deep, the moose may vacate these roads and “cuts” and start spending more time near thick fir and spruce, where there is not as much snow.

4.  When most of the snow is gone (late April – early May), the grass and bushes are all pushed down from winter, and the sheds are easy to spot. The weather is also perfect for woods-walking.

5.  Remember – even though moose don’t need to yard-up like deer, they have wintering areas that they prefer.  These areas will provide sheds year after year.  Keep going to back to these “Honey Holes”.

multished

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Posted by on March 31, 2014 in hunting, moose, Wawang Lake Resort

 

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Deer hunters donate over 227,000 lbs. to help feed the hungry in Missouri alone!

I have often read comments regarding hunting (especially mass hunting) and what happens to the meat.  There are occasions when a population becomes too dense and the animals must be culled to reset the balance…this is what generally happens.

Via http://www.ozarkssentinel.com. The Ozarks Sentinel

— According to the Missouri Department of Conservation (MDC), 4,487 deer hunters donated 227,358 pounds of venison from the 2013 Missouri deer harvest to the state’s Share the Harvest program.

The program is administered by the Conservation Federation of Missouri and MDC to help feed hungry Missourians. Share the Harvest orchestrates the efforts of thousands of hunters, numerous local supporting organizations, and more than 100 participating meat processors to get ground venison to people in need through food banks and food pantries around the state.

Hunters donate their extra venison to participating meat processors who then prepare the donated venison by grinding it into one-pound packages that are given to food banks and food pantries for distribution to those in need.

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 Processing fees are covered entirely or in part by numerous local program sponsors, and statewide sponsors that include the Conservation Department, Shelter Insurance, Bass Pro Shops, the Conservation Federation of Missouri, Missouri Chapter Whitetails Unlimited, Missouri Chapter Safari Club International, Missouri Chapter National Wild Turkey Federation, Midway USA Inc., Missouri Deer Hunters Association, and the Missouri Food Banks Association.

Since the program started in 1992, Share the Harvest has provided more than 3.1 million pounds of lean, healthy venison to help feed Missourians in need.

For more information on Share the Harvest, visithttp://mdc.mo.gov/node/2544.

 
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Posted by on March 19, 2014 in hunting, Wawang Lake Resort

 

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2014 Ontario Resident Moose Hunt

Are you planning to put in for a tag in the moose dense 15A or 15B?

Are you sick of setting up a stake camp and coming back each night cold and damp only to have to set up a fire and wait to cook and warm up?

Why not stay in clean, warm cottages with heat, hot and cold running water, indoor plumbing and kitchens?

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Know your Rover, Know its Range

So those that know me best, know that I am an avid dog enthusiast that has traveled the globe showing dogs.  I am passionate about dogs that can do what they were bred for and still hold a working ability.  This is a fantastic article outlining some very valid points- Enjoy!
by  February 3rd, 2014

a chocolate lab, pointing

“Here, Penny. Come here, girl. Whoa. Now Whoa!” The panicked expletives started the minute I turned my brittany, Penny, loose to quarter the covert. The problem was, it wasn’t me shouting the commands. It was my hunting partner who had only hunted upland birds over his labs.

He didn’t understand that the range for a pointing dog was vastly different than that of a flushing dog, (but really shouldn’t have been commanding or cautioning my dog at all).

He was used to a very close working dog and thought that a wider ranging dog was going to bump birds before we got in position to shoot. What he didn’t know was that a pointing dog, unlike a flushing dog, will (or should) hold birds on point until the guns arrives for the flush.

Range is simply the distance a dog can effectively hunt from its master, and this will vary from dog to dog, breed to breed.

To my mind, range is simply the distance a dog can effectively hunt from its master, and this will vary from dog to dog, breed to breed.

A dog’s natural range is first dictated by genetics and then molded by handling and training in the field. Each breed has its own general parameters in which it works effectively.

Being mindful of the differences between breeds makes the potential owners more informed and more likely to be pleased with their hunting companion.

Point or Flush?
Flusher Retrievers
Flushing dogs, such as retrievers and spaniels, do as their name suggests.

Upon scenting game, they chase and ultimately flush birds. In order to be effective, these dogs must work within a distance of typical shotgun range (10 to 25 yards). If the dog pushes the envelope and starts popping birds up at 35 to 40 yards, the number of missed birds will increase.

The way to train a dog to handle within range is to make sure it’s successful at finding birds in range of the gun during training. Planted birds and solid basic obedience training will convince the dog that if it stays close enough to the shooter, a mouthful of feathers and a retrieve are the reward.

Pointers
Pointing dogs on the other hand can, and should, stretch out the field a bit more. As long as the dog is dependably holding birds until the gun-totting hunter arrives, it can be trusted to reach out a little more.

To ensure that a dog remains steady on point and doesn’t flush birds prematurely, never shoot birds that the dog bumps or flushes.

Soon enough the dog will understand that the only way he gets the reward of a mouthful of feathers is to remain still and hold the bird on the ground until the handler flushes the bird.

Best Breed Debate
The debate over which breed is best for a particular game bird has gone on for decades and will certainly continue. With that in mind, I suggest for the rough shooter who expects to shoot both upland and waterfowl on a given hunt, one of the flushing/retrieving breeds might be most appropriate choice, flushing/retrieving breeds might be most appropriate choice — a springer spaniel or Labrador, for example.

With training, these breeds work close to the gun and will also be happy to hunker down in a blind while waiting for waterfowl to pitch into the decoys.

If, on the other hand, you like to keep your boots dry and hunt upland birds exclusively, then pointing breeds are a better fit. Pointing dogs have a style and range that add a unique flavour to the hunt. True pointing breeds, such as setters or English pointers, are specialists — as are those who tend to own them.

For those who don’t want their dog to dictate the kind of game they pursue, there are always the dock-tailed Continental breeds, such as German shorthairs, Hungarian vizsla, pudlepointers and even brittanys. Pointing, tracking, and retrieving of upland birds, waterfowl, and furred game is all in a day’s work for these versatile breeds.

The distance your dog works from you is ultimately a matter of choice. Regardless of what breed you prefer orgame you hunt, it’s important that you recognize the skills your own dog brings to the field and allow it the room he needs to be effective.

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Trip planning tips

So many people WANT to go on a hunting or fishing trip but find the task daunting and the thought overwhelming so they tend to avoid it….

Truly, if you know a few simple tricks, planning can be expedited and you could find yourself in a boat or tree stand much quicker than expected.

wawang lake, wawang lake resort

U. S. Passport Card

First and foremost, you do NOT need to purchase a passport.  For half the price ($55.00 adult, $40 child) this handy card lasts for a period of 10 years and allows ground transport between the US and Canada and Mexico. If you plan to fly, a passport will be required but most of us travel will plenty of hunting and fishing equipment so driving is much more common.

http://travel.state.gov/content/passports/english/passports/information/card.html

Also a note regarding those pesky DWI’s….if you have had one and it has been over 6 months, there is a good possibility you can still enter Canada!!  https://help.cbp.gov/app/answers/detail/a_id/402/~/entering-the-u.s.-and-canada-with-dui-offenses

Next, when choosing a trip, make a list of ‘must haves’ such as:  The resort MUST HAVE running water, indoor plumbing, somewhere to prepare food etc.  (We have that…shameless plug lol)

Next devise a budget.  Remember to calculate travel and food costs.  And also remember to find out if the cost is per person or an overall cost.  Always add an extra 15% to that number to ensure you have money for unexpected incidentals such as a flat tire etc.  Also, never forget to calculate the local taxes into the cost.

Once you have a targeted budget, begin your research.  Remember, most resorts do have varying rates depending on the season as well as various other specials during the year.

When utilizing specials, ensure that you understand the weather patterns and fishing patterns at that time of year.  Some places have a change over in ease of catching species or hunting migration patterns.  Make sure you ask about this so you aren’t disappointed.

Take us for example, in June our regular Housekeeping fishing rate is $625 per person but offer various discounts from July-Sept.  In July we offer 25% off for parents and children so the rate would drop to $468.75…quite a savings.  And for those of you who are paying attention, our lake is a closed off headwater, spring fed and our fish cant leave…they just tend to migrate from one part of the lake to another so fishing will only be affected by color, depth and presentation 🙂  Feel free to check us out http://wawangresort.com/HTML%20Pages/RATES/Fishing_Rates.pdf

Last and not least, get referrals!  There is nothing more disappointing that driving (or flying) all that way only to find it isnt what is what you were expecting.  Though no trip may be perfect, you should understand the basics of what to expect.  

Ensure that you also contact the lodge representatives with all questions and they should respond promptly, honestly and with as much information as possible…..remember, they should be looking forward to meeting you and be excited to share what they can provide for you.

Remember…this is YOUR vacation and it is within your control to make it the best possible!

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Field dressing a black bear

With the bear hunt just around the corner, we will cover the basics 🙂  Pictures have been withheld due to graphic nature.

Instructions

imagesFG3W4IGS 1. Clear an area surrounding the black bear. Make the area large enough to allow room to move around and roll the animal away from the entrails. The lowest part of the ground should be reserved for the entrails. Move the bear onto its back. Spread the rear legs and either have your partners hold them apart or secure them with ropes. Repeat with the front legs.

  1.  2. Insert one of your knives in the cavity at the base of the bear’s throat. Cut the blood vessels with a deep, crosswise motion to open the jugular vein and bleed the animal. Move the bear so the blood will flow away from it and clear the ground as needed.
  2. Cut the skin in a straight line from the breastbone — located just below the rib cage — to the base of the bear’s jaw. Cut the muscles along this area to the bone to expose the throat and windpipe. From the same starting point, cut the skin in a straight line down to the anus. Some areas require hunters to leave the genitals for sex identification; cut around the genitals slightly to preserve them.
  3. Split the breastbone.  This can be done with a bone saw, hack saw or a couple of axes.  If you choose to use axes, hold one axe against the breastbone and hammer it with the other axe; this will break the bone from the base of the rib cage up to and through the top ribs. Open the chest by pulling the front legs apart. Cut the windpipe and gullet close to the head. Lay them in the chest cavity for later.
  4. Cut through the abdominal muscles; start at the base of the rib cage. Take care not to puncture the intestines, the stomach or the bladder; doing so could taint the meat. Sever the muscles down to the pelvic bone. Enlist your partners to hold open the bear so you can work more smoothly.
  5. Break the pelvic bone by using the same technique implemented the breastbone. Do not cut the urinary tract as it may contaminate the meat. Start on one side of the chest cavity and use your knife to cut the diaphragm from the chest wall. Start at the base of the ribs and slice as far back into the cavity as possible. Have your partners pull the organs to the side so you can see and cut more easily. Repeat the process on the other side of the black bear.
  6. Cut the intestines and rectum from the split pelvic bone to where the rectum meets the muscle tissue at the anus. Cut a circle in the skin at the base of the tail; cut 1 to 2 inches from the anus. Cut the muscles to the top of the pelvic bone to free the anus and rectum. Pull the lower intestine, rectum and anus away from the cavity and hold clear. You must not puncture or cut the urinary tract or intestines.
  7. Hold the parts, roll the black bear away and allow the intestines and stomach to spill onto the ground. Grab the windpipe to pull the lungs and heart out onto the ground. Cut any remaining diaphragm tissue to free the organs. Complete the field dressing by draining as much blood from the bear as possible and wiping the body cavity with cloth rags to clean. Do not use water. At this point your main concern becomes to cool the cavity and prepare for transport which can be done by propping the cavity open with a tree branch.

    IMG_6110 - Copy

    Proper field care will ensure less weight and trouble with removal and transportation from the hunt site.

     For more information on black bear hunting, visit us at http://www.wawangresort.com

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Black Bear…the basics.

Here is a fantastic and very basic overview of black bear, what they are and why we hunt them 🙂  In the case if Wawang Lake Resort, our outfitting is done in the fall, over bait and the average weight of our boars was 278lbs last year with 2 over 400lbs 🙂  Our sows, 180lbs with three over 300 🙂

Black Bear Hunting Basics

Black Bear Paw in Hunter's Hand

If you’re considering taking up black bear hunting or trying to decide if it’s right for you, it’s a good idea to get an overview of what it’s all about. There are a lot of misconceptions about black bear hunting floating around out there, so it pays to know exactly what you’re in for when you set out to hunt “America’s bear”.

In this article, we’ll cover the basics of black bear hunting, including population, seasons, weapons, meat, trophy items, and biology relevant to hunting.

 

Population, Seasons, and Weapons

Although the population of the black bear (Ursus americanus) is in decline in some areas of the U.S. (due to habitat loss), in other areas it is growing rapidly, and in still others it is at an all-time high. The total population of black bears in the lower 48 is estimated to be between 300,000 to 500,000, and the Alaska population is estimated to be 100,000 or more.

Black bear hunting is permitted in a little over half of the 50 states. Many Western states have black bear hunting seasons. In some of these states, hunters are allowed to take two black bears per year. Other popular areas include portions of the upper Midwest, the East coast, and the South. Even a handful of states in the East where black bear hunting has been prohibited for years have recently opened up limited seasons.

Black bears are hunted both in the spring and the fall. However, spring seasons are only allowed in about eight states, and spring hunting often requires applying for a lottery. Fall seasons are typically general seasons, and this is the time when most bears are hunted.

Black bears can be effectively taken with any of the typical weapons used for other big game, including rifle, bow, shotgun, muzzleloader, pistol, and crossbow. (As always, be sure to check your particular state’s game regulations.)

Meat and Other Items

Black Bear MeatBlack bear meat is considered by many to be a delicacy. In fact, even as recently as the late 19th century, bear dishes were some of the most expensive items on the menus at the finest, exclusive restaurants. “Bear bacon”, the whole, smoked hind quarter of a bear, was a prized staple in the diet of settlers on the American frontier. The meat is often compared to pork or lamb, but with a distinctive flavor all its own.

Interestingly, that flavor can vary quite widely depending on what the bear has recently been eating. The most highly prized meat comes from spring bears who have been consuming large quantities of grass and other vegetation as well as fall bears who have been feasting on berries, fruit, or nuts such as acorns.

Luckily, although they are omnivores, about 80-90% of a black bear’s diet consists of plant material, so your odds of having tasty meat are extremely good. Younger bears are also widely reported to have better meat than older bears. Assuming you take a younger bear that hasn’t been eating salmon or carrion, you’re in for quite a treat.

An important word of caution here: black bear meat often contains the parasite that causes trichinosis, an infection that usually results in either no symptoms or minor digestive discomfort but in rare cases can cause more serious complications and even death (although only in less than 0.3% of cases).

Fortunately, there is a simple remedy for this. All bear meat must be cooked completely through until there is no visible pink in the meat. Cooking the meat to an internal temperature of 137 degrees is hot enough to make it safe, although the USDA recommends an internal temperature of 160 degrees. Freezing the meat has not been shown to be adequate protection against trichinosis.

Another highly edible part of a black bear is the fat. Bear fat (which is quite plentiful in fall bears) can be rendered to produce a useful and particularly flavorful cooking oil. Even from a modestly sized bear, you can easily get a couple gallons of this precious liquid.

In addition to the meat and fat, there are also a few prized items to be had from a black bear. First, the fir is soft and luxurious, and many hunters keep the hide and turn it into a rug or even clothing such as a vest. Black bear skulls are fascinating thing to look at, and they’re a great conversation starter when displayed up on the mantle or other prominent location.

Biology Relevant to Hunting

Black bears can vary greatly in size, depending on genetics, the quality of the habitat in which they live, and their gender and age. Mature boars (male bears) can weigh in at over 800 pounds in rare cases. The average adult male, however, weighs between 180 and 300 pounds, while the average adult female weighs slightly less, between 140-250 pounds. You can expect to net about 30% of the live weight in meat. For example, a 200 pound bear may produce up to 60 pounds of meat.

Black bears possess impressive athletic abilities. They can sprint at speeds over 30 mph, can climb trees with ease, and are accomplished swimmers. They also have short, curved, sharp claws and canine teeth capable of ripping and tearing flesh. With these traits, it’s easy to see why they fit squarely into the classification of dangerous game.

While black bear attacks are exceedingly rare, even for bear hunters, they do happen. And tracking wounded bears means the danger increases exponentially. The tracking is bound to take you through dense cover, and the bear’s thick fir soaks up blood fast, making for sparse blood trails to follow. Bears have even been known to loop around and double back on their trail, lying in wait for pursuing hunters. However, with proper preparation and planning, as well as solid shot placement, most bears can be recovered safely and without incident.

Note: In regions where black bears share their range with grizzly bears, it’s important to know how to identify the two bears and tell them apart so you don’t accidentally shoot a grizzly bear, which is a violation of federal law. Here’s a handy bear identification training you can take online for free so you can know for sure before you pull the trigger.

The size of a black bear’s home range can vary greatly depending on the location of food sources in the area. It can be as small as a couple square miles or it can be much larger — a male’s home range may go all the way up to 75 square miles in extreme cases. Bears are opportunistic omnivores, which means their movements are often unpredictable. This wandering lifestyle requires specialized tactics, the most common being spot-and-stalk, baiting, hunting with hounds, and calling.

Regardless of which tactics you employ, you’ll need to defeat a bear’s considerable arsenal of finely tuned senses if you want to have any hope of getting close enough for a shot.

Sense of Smell

First and foremost is their sense of smell, which is thousands of times better than a human’s. In fact, it’s been shown that if you take a bloodhound’s nose and multiply it by about seven, you’ll get a sense of the black bear’s olfactory powers.

There are both defensive and offensive strategies you can use in order to overcome these powers and get within range of a bear without it smelling you. On the defensive side, it’s wise to use as many scent control measures as logistically possible. More importantly, always keep tabs on the wind and make sure you’re hunting into it. A windchecker device, such as a small spray bottle filled with unscented talcom powder comes in real handy for this, as does a fine, frayed string tied to the end of your gun or bow.

You can also go on the offensive and use the wind to your advantage. With good scouting and planning, it’s possible to hunt with the wind at your back, allowing your scent to move out ahead of you and drive bears toward another hunter in a treestand or other fixed position.

Sense of Hearing

Next up is their sense of hearing, which is thought to be significantly better than a human’s, although it’s not known exactly how much better. They can detect a human voice at 300 yards and the cocking of a gun at 50 yards.

Your best defense against a bear’s ears is to simply be quiet. Move slowly and carefully, wear quiet clothing, and speak in whispers to your hunting companions. On the offensive side, always keep your ears tuned for bear sounds. Bears make noise when feeding, such as turning over rotten logs looking for grubs, and they communicate with each other through woofs, sniffs, grunts, and growls.

Sense of Sight

Contrary to popular belief, bears do, in fact, see in color. Their vision is roughly equivalent to a human’s — better, if you include the fact that they have excellent night vision. Although they’re somewhat near-sighted, they are adept at detecting movement, even at long distances.

To win the battle of the eyes, you’ll need to have a solid defensive plan. It’s very important to wear full camouflage and choose a pattern that breaks up your outline and matches the local vegetation well. More importantly, always move slowly and cautiously, and never move when a bear is looking in your direction.

As for offense, always carry a pair of high quality binoculars. The black color of a bear’s fur can make them a little easier to spot than other big game like deer. Carry your binoculars on your chest with a harness or “bino bra”, and use them often. When hunting open country using spot-and-stalk tactics, you can also employ a high-power spotting scope to give your eyes even more reach.

More on this next time…………………

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How to have a problem-free cold-weather hunt

With all the talk of such freezing temperatures, it is no wonder most of us are a lot less eager to suit up and get out hunting. Here is a great article written by By Ken Bailey on how to prepare for a comfortable, cold day hunt!

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In late-November whitetail hunt many years back, I stumbled upon a dream buck lying out in a hayfield. Perhaps he was tired from chasing does, but since I pegged him at about 180 Boone & Crockett points, it wasn’t the time to question my good fortune. I laid my rifl e across a fencepost, found the sweet spot in the scope and squeezed the trigger. You wouldn’t believe how loud an unexpected click sounds in the still, frozen air. Unsure of what had just happened, I ejected the cartridge, pushed in another and squeezed again. Another loud click. At that, the buck jumped to his feet and bounded off while I cursed aloud. The culprit, as it turned out, was a frozen firing pin spring. Here’s how to avoid this happening to you, along with some other tips for a problem-free cold-weather hunt.

Mind the moisture
So, why did my rifle misfire? It’s a common problem, really. Condensation forms on the metal when the firearm is brought in from the cold, then slides into the action and barrel. When you take the gun back outside, the moisture freezes and locks up the action or firing pin.

To prevent this, leave your rifle out in the cold—whether in a locked vehicle or other protected location—if it’s safe to do so. If you have no option but to bring the gun inside, store it muzzle down and dry it thoroughly once it has stopped sweating. Snow can also play havoc with the action and muzzle of your fi rearm, so scrupulously brush off any that accumulates. To ensure snow doesn’t get in the barrel, cover the crown with a strip of electrical tape—it won’t have any impact on the ballistics. As with the problem of condensation, any snow left on your gun will melt when you bring it inside, then turn to ice when you head back out.

Lose the lubricants
I’m vigilant about cleaning and lubricating my fi rearms: a well-oiled rifle ensures consistent friction-free cycling. But lubricants can lose their viscosity in frigid temperatures, and begin to freeze in extreme situations. That can result in slow or inoperable triggers and firing pins.

The good news is, modern firearms are designed to work perfectly fine without lubrication, especially if high-volume shooting, which can lead to heat buildup and increased friction, is not required. So, if you’re going to be hunting in sub-zero temperature, cleanse your action of all lubricants. There are many commercial degreasers on the market, but virtually any solvent, or even gasoline, will work well.

To begin, remove and disassemble your bolt, for this is where years of grease, oil, dirt and general crud can accumulate. This includes inside the firing pin spring. Once you’ve soaked the components in a degreaser, simply wipe them dry and reassemble the gun. If you’re of the notion that you absolutely must use a lubricant, look for one of the modern concoctions rated for -40°C or colder.

Dress for the occasion
Two years ago on a Newfoundland moose hunt, I got caught unprepared when the tail end of a hurricane caused the temperature to plummet 30 degrees. I was forced to put on nearly every stitch of clothing I had with me, most of which wasn’t designed to be worn together.

I really should have known better— when hunting in regions where extreme cold is possible, even if it’s not in the forecast, go prepared for the worst. That means layering your clothing from top to bottom. Wear a base layer that wicks moisture away from your skin; underwear made of polypropylene is a good choice. Cotton absorbs moisture, so avoid it at all costs.

Mid-layers are designed to insulate, so you’ll want several layers to accommodate a wide range of temperatures and activity levels. Popular materials include wool or the various iterations of fleece. Your outer layer should protect you against wind, snow and freezing rain, so the shell must be wind and waterproof. Be sure it includes a hood.

All your clothing should fit comfortably but not tightly. Select sizes such that each layer fits well over the layer below it. And when it comes to covering your feet, head and hands, moisture wicking materials, insulation and protection from the elements are equally important. Now, bring on the cold!

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Posted by on January 15, 2014 in hunting, Wawang Lake Resort

 

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Choosing the Right Caliber

Here is a great (and funny) chart I found made up by hunter-ed.com that illustrates how to select the proper caliber for your hunt 🙂

How to Choose the Right Caliber

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Posted by on December 27, 2013 in firearm, hunting, Wawang Lake Resort

 

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Gear up:Multitools

Each and every person that venture out into the field will appreciate having a multitool on their side or in their pack.  These little devices not only are helpful but could save your life!

Below are some of the newest and hottest ones on the market.

In this article, we will be looking briefly at the following multi-tools.


From left to right:
Leatherman Vista, Remington Bird Hunters Tool, Bear & Son Bird Shears, Gerber MP600 DET, Remington Wingmaster, SOG Powerlock 2.0 EOD, Leatherman MUT, AR Multitasker, Multasker Ultralight.


From left to right:
Avid Design Gun Tool, Avid Design Turkey Tool, Beretta Shotgun Tool, Gerber eFECT, Multitasker TUBE.

EOD Tools
–   Gerber MP600 DET.
–   Gerber Evolution MP650 Military Tech kit.
–   SOG  Powerlock 2.0 EOD
–   Leatherman MUT EOD.

Armourer Tools
–   Gerber eFECT .
–   AR Multitasker version 2
–   Multitasker Ultralight.
–   Multitasker TUBE.
–   Avid Design Gun tool.
–   Leatherman MUT.

Hunting Tools
–   Leatherman Vista.
–   Bear & Son Bird Shears.
–   Remington Bird Hunters Tool.
–   Remington Wingmaster.
–   Beretta Shotgun Tool.
–   Avid Design Turkey Tool.

EOD Tools

Gerber MP600 DET

The Gerber MP600 DET has been around for quite some time, having been first introduced back in 1999. It is a member of an extensive line of Black Oxide tools in the Multiplier series, hence the MP designation. This version of the venerable MP600 series was designed specifically for the Explosive Ordinance folks. The tool features a C-4 spike and a blasting cap crimper which is built into the pliers. Another useful feature is the inclusion of a removable RemGrit saw blade. You can add different saws to suit your needs. The tool comes in black oxide for the military folks and features Gerber’s unique sliding pliers that allow one hand opening. Note however, that the tool does rattle (All MP400 and MP600 Gerbers rattle to an extent). So if you are into special ops and silence is key, look elsewhere for your stealth tool of choice.

Gerber Evolution MP650 Military Tech Kit.

The Gerber Evolution MP650’s claim to fame is that you can remove the plier heads and re-attach different ones depending upon your needs. The Military Tech kit comes in a very large pouch that allows you to store your MP650 and 5 different plier heads along with maybe a cleaning kit or some odds and ends you may need in the field. The pouch is massive, and the tool itself is not compact. The pliers do not slid into the handles for storage. Thus you are left with a bulky set of pliers that are interchangeable. Now the kit does come with a wire cutter head, blunt nose, needle nose, and Cap crimper head for your EOD needs. This is why I have included this discontinued tool in this section of the overview. Older kits came with the tool pictured above, which lacks the internal handle springs. Newer Evolution tools have the handle springs that prop open the pliers when at rest. So a different idea that does expand the usefulness of the multi-tool, but fails in both execution and portability.  Besides, you just have to wonder how many plier heads get lost in the field.

SOG Powerlock 2.0 EOD

I do not have the black oxide version which I would think, might be of more interest to the military user. However, the stainless steel version is identical to the BO version, and this should give you a nice idea of what the tool looks like, and its capabilities. SOG does make nice multi-tools. They feature gear driven plier heads that are supposed to give you 2 to 3X the force of regular plier heads. They also are very easy to configure to your liking. SOG sells optional tools that are easily interchangeable. An added benefit to this feature, is that a SOG should be easy to clean compared to other multi-tools that don’t want you to disassemble them. This version features a C-4 Spike and is the updated 2.0 version of the Powerlock with cap crimper.

Leatherman MUT EOD

Leatherman just recently came out with a series of 3 tools designed specifically for the military or service sector. Here we are going to look at the EOD version. This is a big and heavy tool that differs from the other MUT in that it offers a C-4 spike instead of a firearm punch, and a blast crimper plier head. All other features are identical to the other version of the MUT. All MUTs feature an integral hammer/cutting hook, bolt override tool, carbon scraper, cleaning rod/brush adapter, bottle opener, carabiner clip, saw, wire cutters, knife blade, and long/short driver bits. The wire cutters are replaceable and made from 154CM steel. The MUT series also features a lot of replaceable tools. The cutters, cutting hook, punch or C-4 spike, and brass carbon scraper are all user replaceable.

Armourer Tools

Gerber eFECT

The Gerber eFECT was designed for the AR15, M16, and M4 weapon systems, and features OTIS gun cleaning component compatibility. The eFECT is a very small and light tool that offers 6 tools on tap. You get an OTIS nylon end brush, a punch, a carbon scraper, an interchangeable 4 /5 pin sight tool, a flathead screwdriver, and an OTIS curved pick. The tool is compact and light enough, but feels overly cheap for it. On the plus side, if you are looking for a compact and useful piece of kit that won’t weight you down…then the Gerber eFECT just might have what you’re looking for.

This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image. The original image is sized 800×600.

AR Multitasker (version 2)

The AR Multitasker is geared towards the same market as the above mentioned Gerber eFECT. However, both tools couldn’t be further apart. The Multitasker is plier based, and is a true piece of quality throughout. Billeted tool steel CNC pliers with ball bearings around the pivot points, A brass like alloy washer bushings used throughout. G10 handle grips that are backed by lots of metal. Can you tell I like this multi-tool? A brass dental pick is included, along with a carbon scraper, 4 prong sight adjustment tool, a castle nut wrench, a 3/8” box wrench, a file with 5/16” flat screwdriver, a tanto knife blade, a bit driver for ¼” interchangeable bits. The dental pick screws onto an 8-32 threaded male connector that will accept OTIS gun cleaning accessories and bore snake. Because the AR Multitasker is produced from a relatively small manufacturer, they are constantly improving their products. Consequently, the AR Multitasker is now at version 2.1.  The following photo shows from left to right, AR Multitasker 1.0, AR Multitasker 2.0, and AR Multitasker 2.1.

Multitasker Ultralight

A more direct competitor to the Gerber eFECT is the Ultralight from Multitasker. This tool feels a lot more solid than the eFECT with its nonslip G10 handles, and solid metal underpinnings. The Ultralight gives you a 4 prong sight adjustment tool which once removed, accepts ¼” interchangeable driver bits, a castle nut wrench with a 5/16” flat screwdriver. You also get a brass dental pick that unscrews to allow you to use 8-32 threaded OTIS accessories. The carbon scraper is shaped the same as the AR Multitasker, with a radiused tip that allows you to get into places a regular shaped scraper can’t.  In the following photo, we have the production version of the Ultralight on the right, with 3 prototypes on the left.

Multitasker TUBE

If you find the full sized AR Multitasker and the smaller Ultralight too large for your field kit, the Multitasker TUBE might be what you are looking for. This pen style multi-tool is small but does pack a lot of usability. Both end caps unscrew, and are well protected from inclement weather with a rubber O ring. The short end cap covers a ¼” interchangeable bit driver. The TUBE comes with a 4 prong sight adjustment bit. The other end unscrews to reveal an OTIS 8-32 threaded bolt along with the familiar Multitasker carbon scraper and brass dental pick. The TUBE is designed to complement an OTIS kit. You can buy an expansion kit for the TUBE. Included are 10 driver bits, a nice hard clamshell case that will hold your TUBE tool, OTIS kit bore snake and accessories.

Avid Design Gun Tool

The Avid Design Gun Tool is a non plier based weapon maintenance tool. Unlike the majority of the other tools in this comparison, it isn’t specific to the AR15, M16 or M4 type weapons. Consider the Avid Gun Tool as a generalist in this group. Not to say you can’t use the others for generalist work, it is just that the Avid Gun Tool doesn’t have any of the specialized tools that the others have. With this in mind, the focus of the Avid Gun Tool is that of long gun users. You get a pin punch, shotgun choke wrench for all gauges combined with a scope windage/elevation blade, Torx drives (T20, T15, T10), Allen Hex drives (3/32”, 5/32”), 1/8” and 3/16” flat screwdriver blades along with a #1 and 2 Phillips driver, a built in integral bit storage block with access door that holds 4 magnetic hex drive bits, and a claw-point knife blade that would be great for opening ammo boxes, etc. The body is made of plastic with rubber grips on a stainless steel frame.  One end of the tool is a 3/16” driver.

Leatherman MUT

The regular version of the MUT exchanges the C-4 spike for the pin punch, and the cap crimper plier head for the regular plier head. Other than those differences, they are the same tool. There are two versions of the regular MUT. The black oxide version is not shown here. This version is great for those who don’t plan on playing with explosives in the field…which pretty much means this is the more popular and standard version of the MUT.

Hunting Tools

Leatherman Vista

The now discontinued Leatherman Vista features pruning shears that are perfect to clear shooting galleries of unwanted branches, and also in cleaning up bird games as a handy pair of bone shears. The Vista also gives you a handy saw, bottle opener, soft wire cutters, awl with threaded loop, Phillips screwdriver, flat screwdriver, and a shotgun choke tube adjustment tool. The Vista is a large and handy tool that features a non slip rubber grip in black and hunter green. This tool would come in handy for tree stand hunters.

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Bear & Son Bird Shears

The Bear & Son Bird Shears offer a lot of tool for the Bird hunter. A very large bird shear is front and center of the tool, along with a half serrated clip point blade, saw, gut hook, and small flat screwdriver. This tool is very well constructed with quality stainless steel throughout except for two large nylon spacers.

Remington Bird Hunters Tool

The Remington Bird Hunters Tool was originally produced by Bear & Son and explains the familial resemblance to the Bird Shears mentioned above. This version was produced in China and lacks the quality seen in the Bear & Son products. This example has the bone notch in the jaws. All Remington Bird Hunters differ from the Bear & Son product by exchanging the flat screwdriver for the shotgun choke tube wrench.

Remington Wingmaster

The Remington Wingmaster is another made in China birding tool. I believe it was designed to replace the Remington Bird Hunters Tool once they lost the right to manufacture the Bear & Son lookalike. The Wingmaster is a completely different tool. It features a built in LED light, the same bone notch as seen in the older Chinese made Bird Hunters Tool, 3” saw, 1 ¾” blade, gut hook, and a shotgun choke tube wrench. Overall, not a bad tool.

Beretta Shotgun Tool

I wasn’t exactly sure how to classify this odd tool. Does it fit into the armourer’s section, or the hunter’s section? Either location could fit I guess, as it comes with a mixture of tools that would fit either category. The Beretta shotgun tool is an odd duck through and through. It has a unique designed hammer with the handles folded out to give you a very nice leverage when using that hammer. The tool also comes with a separate 2mm punch pin for use with that hammer. The tool does come with small pliers (think Victorinox Swiss Army Knife style and size), Shotgun choke tube wrenches, sheep’s foot blade, #2 Phillips screwdriver, flat screwdriver, and fine file. Integrated into the hammer, are 3 hex bolt nut wrenches. The whole thing is built from stainless steel and the fit and finish is excellent.

Avid Design Turkey Tool

Avid Design Turkey Tool is a non plier based specialized tool for the Turkey hunter. You can’t talk about this tool without talking about the sheath. The sheath is unique in that it is part of a bird carrying system. The sheath opens up via Velcro fasteners. Inside the sheath is a slip knot noose for the birds feet/head.  The inside of the sheath is also lined with hunter orange reflective surface. Once you bagged your gobbler, you can open up the sheath and carry the bird on your belt, or use the carrying hook found on the back of the Turkey Tool. The Turkey Tool also features a large knife blade, saw, shotgun choke tube wrench, punch pin, and a 4 piece folding metal ruler. The tool is also camo painted with black rubber inserts for added grip.

Conclusions
Well there you have it, a short overview of a good selection of specialized multi-tools. I will leave it up to you to decide which tool meets your needs. They all are capable, and each has their own unique charm and character.

I will conclude this with other related photographs.


Comparison of various bird shears. From left to right: Bear & Son Bird Shears, Leatherman Vista, Remington Wingmaster, Remington Bird Hunters Tool.


Leatherman MUT family. From left to right: MUT, MUT BO, MUT EOD.


AR Multitasker with OTIS bore snake attached.


Multitasker TUBE expansion kit showing the hard clamshell case, and included driver bits.


Gerber eFECT with sheath.


Beretta Shotgun Tool with punch pin and sheath.


Gerber Military Tech Kit with Evolution MP650.


Gerber Military Tech kit.


Avid Design Turkey Tool Sheath.


Avid Design Turkey Tool with sheath.

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