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Category Archives: hunting equipment

Tree Stand Safety

14 Sep

tree_stand_tips_wawanglakeAlways be cautious using a tree stand.   As hunters begin to set up tree stands as part of their preparation, safety is still rule number one whether you are scouting a location, trimming shooting lanes and putting up your tree stand, even on a trial basis, use the same precautions you would during hunting season.

Use a lineman-style belt in addition to a full-body harness when first putting a tree stand in place.  This minimizes the chance of falls and potential injury,  and,  always select a healthy, straight tree for placement.

Other recommendations:
Never carry anything as you climb — use a haul line to raise and lower equipment.

  • Maintain three points of contact when climbing.
  • Follow manufacturer instructions.
  • Don’t exceed manufacturer’s maximum height settings.
  • Have an emergency signal device with you.
  • Tell someone where you plan to go.

As with any piece of equipment, tree stands need inspection before use.

Replace:

  • Rusted bolts
  • Frayed straps or, if needed, buy a new tree stand.

Leaving a tree stand up from one season to the next has some inherent problems that outweigh any convenience. When a tree stand is exposed to the elements due to long-term placement, it may have damaged straps, ropes and attachment cords — any of which may potentially lead to breakage and failure.

 

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Posted by on September 14, 2015 in hunting, hunting equipment, Wawang Lake Resort

 

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An adrenaline filled archery moose hunt!

05 Sep

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Sometimes the thrill of the hunt gets escalated that much more!  This is one of the most adrenaline filled hunts we have seen in years.  This hunt was filmed in the Yukon and was executed with great skill…while we promote hunting, we suggest unless you have the skill necessary, do not try this out in the field 🙂

Are you an Ontario resident with a tag for 15A or 15B?  We have centrally located accommodations.  Book early to avoid disappointment!

BOOK NOW

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Posted by on September 5, 2015 in hunting, hunting equipment, moose, Wawang Lake Resort

 

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Winter camping for beginners

04 Sep

Winter camping can mean different things to different people.  For some, it means renting a cabin heated by a wood stove. For oth­ers, it means pack­ing snow­mo­bile trail­ers to the brim. For the more adven­tur­ous, it means grab­bing a pack and haul­ing in all the neces­si­ties to a remote loca­tion. No mat­ter how you win­ter camp, the fol­low­ing tricks are useful.

WEAR A FIRE­PROOF SHELL
If you are going to build camp­fires, either for the sake of cook­ing, warmth, or morale, make sure that your outer layer of cloth­ing is less likely to end up ruined if struck by an errant ember.  Wool is one of the best, most fire-resistant nat­ural mate­ri­als and is great for this.  Down jack­ets are down­right (no pun intended) awful, and you can lose tons of feath­ers this way.

PACK THE SNOW
Before set­ting up your tent, pack down your camp­site. If you have skis or snow­shoes, that means tramp­ing around hard until all the snow is packed.  If you’re shod only in boots this will take some time, but if you don’t do this, you run the risk of step­ping into a soft bit of snow in your tent and tear­ing the floor.

PACK AN EXTRA HAT AND GLOVES
Always carry a spare hat and a set of mit­tens. No mat­ter how dili­gent you are, no mat­ter how reli­gious you are about using idiot strings and keeper cords, you will lose a hat, and you will lose a glove.  Keep a cheap spare, or be pre­pared for frost­bite or a fore­short­ened trip.

EMBRACE THE PEE BOT­TLE.
Being cold can cause you to want to uri­nate more fre­quently, and we all know how incon­ve­nient it is to dis­robe and undo your sleep­ing bag at 0 degrees F.  For women, I highly rec­om­mend look­ing into the var­i­ous acces­sories that allow you to pee whilst stand­ing, and for both gen­ders a WELL-MARKED pee bot­tle will keep you warm and sim­plify your nightly con­ti­nence. For the love of god, don’t con­fuse your water bottle—color is not enough, make sure your bot­tle is well-marked and maybe wrapped in some duct tape.

USE THOSE STAKES
If there is snow, you can stake out your tent.  You can always make dead­men out of sticks or fallen trees, stuff sacks full of snow, buried skis, snow­shoes, poles, ice axes, or what have you.  There is no excuse for a poorly staked-out tent.  If you expect no snow and frozen con­di­tions, plenty of com­pa­nies make hard tent stakes meant to push through frozen ground, either out of tita­nium, steel, or 7075-t6 aluminum.

BRING THE RIGHT SLEEP­ING PAD
As Bear Grylls says, two lay­ers on the bot­tom are worth one on the top.  That is, you lose more heat through con­duc­tive heat loss when sleep­ing than any­thing else, so win­ter is no time to skimp on your sleep­ing pad.  Make sure you have a pad with an r value of four or more, and if you have one, throw a closed-cell foam pad under­neath. If you feel like your pad isn’t cut­ting it, stuff extra cloth­ing under­neath you, and toss your down jacket on top of your sleep­ing bag.

BOIL THE SNOW
Leave your water fil­ter at home.  Chem­i­cal fil­ters take longer to work in the cold, and mechan­i­cal fil­ters can crack and fail. Your best bet for water fil­tra­tion is boil­ing your water, as you prob­a­bly have to melt snow any­way. Don’t be suck­ered into think­ing glacial melt or fresh snow is sterile–it isn’t. Snowflakes often form around small bits of dust (nucle­ation sites) which can be bac­te­ria or viruses float­ing in the upper atmosphere.

SLEEP WITH YOUR BOOTS
Use boots with remov­able lin­ers, so you can put those lin­ers at the bot­tom of your sleep­ing bag to keep them warm.  If you only have single-layer boots, put them in a water­proof stuff sack at the bot­tom of your sleep­ing bag.  Noth­ing means morn­ing hypother­mia more than frozen boots!

CAMP BY CAN­DLE­LIGHT
A can­dle lantern safely hung on the inside of your tent (far enough away from you and the ceil­ing so as not to be a fire haz­ard) does won­ders to both warm your tent and reduce con­den­sa­tion.  Despite this, a towel for scrap­ing off con­den­sa­tion is always welcome.

EMBRACE LITHIUM
Use lithium bat­ter­ies in all your win­ter elec­tron­ics.  Not only does lithium per­form con­sis­tently down to much colder tem­per­a­tures than alka­line or NiMh bat­ter­ies, but they are lighter, last three times as long, and have a flat decay curve.

WIPE WITH CARE 
In the sum­mer, comfy leaves or soft river stones abound, but in the win­ter they’re few and far-between. While many have picked up pinecones in des­per­a­tion, the best read­ily found alter­na­tive is just plain old snow. It’s effective, ubiquitous, and leaves behind lit­tle residue.  If you do bring TP, please either pack it out or burn it. The ground is too hard for catholes and for those who have hiked along the Appalachian Trail dur­ing the first spring thaw, a mound of TP gen­er­ally sig­ni­fies a poorly hid­den scat stash.

FIGHT CON­DEN­SA­TION WITH A VBL
If you’re out more than a week, use a VBL, or vapor-barrier-liner for your sleep­ing bag.  Con­den­sa­tion from your own body can freeze within the upper layer of your sleep­ing bag where the warm air meets the freez­ing air, and over time your sleep­ing bag can become frozen solid.  While they are not as com­fort­able to sleep in, it beats hit­ting your sleep­ing bag with a ham­mer every night like some polar explor­ers have had to do.

FLIP YOUR BAG
If it’s not snow­ing, turn your sleep­ing bag inside out on top of your tent to dry dur­ing the day.  This is a great rea­son to choose win­ter sleep­ing bags with a black interior–it absorbs more solar energy and dries out faster.

FLIP YOUR WATER
If you have a large water stor­age con­tainer, turn it upside-down when stor­ing it overnight.  Ice forms from the top down, so keep­ing the spout/opening of your con­tainer fac­ing down keeps it from get­ting frozen up. This can be com­bined with insu­lat­ing the con­tainer, of course.

VASE­LINE
Cover exposed skin in Vase­line or ani­mal fats. Inuit have been doing this for years–simply slather any exposed or poten­tially exposed skin on your face, ears, neck, wrists, or hands in a thick oil and they’ll be less prone to wind­burn and frostbite.

Stay warm!

Prefer traditional camping without snow?  Check us out!

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Posted by on September 4, 2015 in do it yourself, hunting, hunting equipment, Wawang Lake Resort

 

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DIY: Survival Cook Stove out of a Tin Can

21 Aug

This is a how-to on how to make a survival cook stove instead of spending $25 to buy one online. It is a simple projecting that requires an old can, a pair of scissors, and a knife. Be careful and pay attention to his excellent instructions! Watch this video survival training tutorial and learn how to build a cook stove out of a tin can.

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Posted by on August 21, 2015 in do it yourself, hunting equipment, Wawang Lake Resort

 

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Turn Your Phone Into A Walkie Talkie

06 Aug

Beartooth a case to use on your smartphone that essentially turns your phone into a walkie talkie to be used when your phone is out of range of cell service.beartooth-case-that-turns-your-phone-into-a-walkie-talkie-thumb

The device will allow you to make texts and phone calls with other Beartooth users over a radio signal, and even allows you to get your geo-location to be used with a map. The radio device will even encrypt your text messages using a 128-bit encryption to keep your data safe.

The Beartooth phone case radio features individual or group messaging, an SOS broadcasting that that will broadcast your position at user defined intervals for emergencies, as well as hold extra battery storage for your phone right in the case.

The radio will reach the standard length of most walkie talkies (around 2 miles), comes with a 2000 mAh battery that will double the battery life of your phone, and will operate in the 151-154Mhz (VHF) and 462-467Mhz (UHF) frequency ranges. Price and availability for the device is to be determined, but production is said to begin in 2015.

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Posted by on August 6, 2015 in hunting equipment, preparation, trip planning, Wawang Lake Resort

 

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Baking Soda to Cover Your Scent

16 Jul

Baking soda, the same stuff that deodorizes the fridge and is the key to scent-control system before a hunt.

CN7BBG empty box on white background

Take a soda shower.
The stuff can rub your skin raw if you use it straight, so mix a few tablespoons with some liquid no-scent soap.  Sometimes showering with straight unscented soap, can still leave an odor.

Make a soda-and-clothes lasagna style.
Use baking soda like any other powdered detergent to wash your clothes. Dry them, lay a few items in a plastic tote, sprinkle a layer of soda on that, put in another layer of clothing, sprinkle more soda, and so on until the tote is full. Then place an open box of baking soda in with the clothes and seal the tote up.

Sprinkle your boots.
Obviously, your feet are one of the smelliest body parts because they’re constantly sweating inside your boots,   If boots are wet with perspiration after a hunt, put them on a boot dryer and then sprinkle in some baking soda.  You’ll have very few animals cut your track after applying this tip.

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Posted by on July 16, 2015 in hunting, hunting equipment, Wawang Lake Resort

 

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Tree Stand Safety

15 Jul

tree_stand_tips_wawanglakeAlways be cautious using a tree stand.   As hunters begin to set up tree stands as part of their preparation, safety is still rule number one whether you are scouting a location, trimming shooting lanes and putting up your tree stand, even on a trial basis, use the same precautions you would during hunting season.

Use a lineman-style belt in addition to a full-body harness when first putting a tree stand in place.  This minimizes the chance of falls and potential injury,  and,  always select a healthy, straight tree for placement.

Other recommendations:
Never carry anything as you climb — use a haul line to raise and lower equipment.

  • Maintain three points of contact when climbing.
  • Follow manufacturer instructions.
  • Don’t exceed manufacturer’s maximum height settings.
  • Have an emergency signal device with you.
  • Tell someone where you plan to go.

As with any piece of equipment, tree stands need inspection before use.

Replace:

  • Rusted bolts
  • Frayed straps or, if needed, buy a new tree stand.

Leaving a tree stand up from one season to the next has some inherent problems that outweigh any convenience. When a tree stand is exposed to the elements due to long-term placement, it may have damaged straps, ropes and attachment cords — any of which may potentially lead to breakage and failure.

 

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TESTIMONIALS    BROCHURE    HUNT BOOKLET

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Posted by on July 15, 2015 in hunting, hunting equipment, Wawang Lake Resort

 

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DIY: Survival Cook Stove out of a Tin Can

06 Jul

This is a how-to on how to make a survival cook stove instead of spending $25 to buy one online. It is a simple projecting that requires an old can, a pair of scissors, and a knife. Be careful and pay attention to his excellent instructions! Watch this video survival training tutorial and learn how to build a cook stove out of a tin can.

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Posted by on July 6, 2015 in do it yourself, hunting equipment, Wawang Lake Resort

 

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Know your Rover, Know its Range

30 Jun

by  February 3rd, 2014

a chocolate lab, pointing

“Here, Penny. Come here, girl. Whoa. Now Whoa!” The panicked expletives started the minute I turned my brittany, Penny, loose to quarter the covert. The problem was, it wasn’t me shouting the commands. It was my hunting partner who had only hunted upland birds over his labs.

He didn’t understand that the range for a pointing dog was vastly different than that of a flushing dog, (but really shouldn’t have been commanding or cautioning my dog at all).

He was used to a very close working dog and thought that a wider ranging dog was going to bump birds before we got in position to shoot. What he didn’t know was that a pointing dog, unlike a flushing dog, will (or should) hold birds on point until the guns arrives for the flush.

Range is simply the distance a dog can effectively hunt from its master, and this will vary from dog to dog, breed to breed.

To my mind, range is simply the distance a dog can effectively hunt from its master, and this will vary from dog to dog, breed to breed.

A dog’s natural range is first dictated by genetics and then molded by handling and training in the field. Each breed has its own general parameters in which it works effectively.

Being mindful of the differences between breeds makes the potential owners more informed and more likely to be pleased with their hunting companion.

Point or Flush?
Flusher Retrievers
Flushing dogs, such as retrievers and spaniels, do as their name suggests.

Upon scenting game, they chase and ultimately flush birds. In order to be effective, these dogs must work within a distance of typical shotgun range (10 to 25 yards). If the dog pushes the envelope and starts popping birds up at 35 to 40 yards, the number of missed birds will increase.

The way to train a dog to handle within range is to make sure it’s successful at finding birds in range of the gun during training. Planted birds and solid basic obedience training will convince the dog that if it stays close enough to the shooter, a mouthful of feathers and a retrieve are the reward.

Pointers
Pointing dogs on the other hand can, and should, stretch out the field a bit more. As long as the dog is dependably holding birds until the gun-totting hunter arrives, it can be trusted to reach out a little more.

To ensure that a dog remains steady on point and doesn’t flush birds prematurely, never shoot birds that the dog bumps or flushes.

Soon enough the dog will understand that the only way he gets the reward of a mouthful of feathers is to remain still and hold the bird on the ground until the handler flushes the bird.

Best Breed Debate
The debate over which breed is best for a particular game bird has gone on for decades and will certainly continue. With that in mind, I suggest for the rough shooter who expects to shoot both upland and waterfowl on a given hunt, one of the flushing/retrieving breeds might be most appropriate choice, flushing/retrieving breeds might be most appropriate choice — a springer spaniel or Labrador, for example.

With training, these breeds work close to the gun and will also be happy to hunker down in a blind while waiting for waterfowl to pitch into the decoys.

If, on the other hand, you like to keep your boots dry and hunt upland birds exclusively, then pointing breeds are a better fit. Pointing dogs have a style and range that add a unique flavour to the hunt. True pointing breeds, such as setters or English pointers, are specialists — as are those who tend to own them.

For those who don’t want their dog to dictate the kind of game they pursue, there are always the dock-tailed Continental breeds, such as German shorthairs, Hungarian vizsla, pudlepointers and even brittanys. Pointing, tracking, and retrieving of upland birds, waterfowl, and furred game is all in a day’s work for these versatile breeds.

The distance your dog works from you is ultimately a matter of choice. Regardless of what breed you prefer orgame you hunt, it’s important that you recognize the skills your own dog brings to the field and allow it the room he needs to be effective.

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Posted by on June 30, 2015 in hunting, hunting equipment, Wawang Lake Resort

 

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Gear up: Best Hunting Boot Review

23 Jun

So tis the season!  While searching online for my next pair of field boots, I came across this fantastic post done by Outdoor Life Magazine.  A realistic review of several different boots including price 🙂  Talk about a treasure trove.

Remember, when searching footwear to take into consideration:  Climate, Terrain, Fit

NEVER purchase a pair of boots without trying them on and getting a good feel for how they physically feel.  Ensure that you leave enough room for the socks you intend to wear during the majority of your hunts.

boots

Boot Review: Best New Hunting Boots

In order to help you draw a bead on your next pair of boots, we tested a dozen pairs in three categories in Alaska.

A quick glance at this year’s crop of new hunting footwear reveals that although manufacturers aren’t slashing prices while at the same time improving the quality of their goods—as makers of fishing tackle and firearms have done in 2012—they have taken strides to make their boots lighter, more waterproof, and easier to break in than the offerings of recent years.

In order to help you draw a bead on your next pair of boots, we tested a dozen pairs in three categories in Alaska in early March. We wore the boots in snow, waded them through icy marshes, and used them to climb slick, rocky ground. See the results here.

irish setter

Irish Setter Havoc
Price: $199

Though it’s billed as a big-game boot, we found the Havoc to be agile enough for grouse and supportive enough for elk. The boot is available uninsulated or with 800 grams of Thinsulate. Boasting a short break-in period, these boots are an excellent all-around option this fall.

SCORE
Overall: * * * * 
Construction/Materials: A-
Fit: A-
Meets Intended Use: A
Innovation: B
Price/Value: B+
Weight (per boot): 1 lb. 14.9 oz.

Website: irishsetterboots.com

llbean

L.L. Bean Technical Big Game Boot
Price: $199 

Full of quality amenities—400 grams of PrimaLoft, a Gore-Tex layer, an antimicrobial lining—the most innovative feature of these boots is the Boa lacing system, which tightens with the twist of a dial. A reinforced toe-cap increases the boot’s lifespan.

SCORE
Overall: * * * 1/2
Construction/Materials: A-
Fit: C+
Meets Intended Use: A-
Innovation: A
Price/Value: A-
Weight (per boot): 1 lb. 14.9 oz.

website: llbean.com

wolverine

Wolverine Scout II
Price: $140

These boots are dependable, comfortable, and will do a great job in the early season or regions where the weather doesn’t get overly cold. The best thing about the Scout II is Wolverine’s new molded, angled track sole, which provided sure-footedness on snow, ice, rocks, and fallen logs.

SCORE
Overall: * * * 1/2
Construction/Materials: B+
Fit: B+
Meets Intended Use: A-
Innovation: B-
Price/Value: B+
Weight (per boot): 1 lb. 5.2 oz.

Website: wolverine.com

muck

RUBBER/NEOPRENE
Editor’s Choice: Muck Terrain
Price: $240

Brought to you by the original neoprene bootmaker, the 18-inch Terrain is rimmed with an adjustable neoprene dirt/snow skirt, and the upper features textured rubber guards that offer protection in places that get poked, jabbed, and scuffed the most.

Made from 4-millimeter neoprene, the boots are generously sized around the calf, allowing pants to be tucked in. It’s a stout boot, yet it’s still comfortable during longer walks. The soles stayed glued to treestands and the footboards of ATVs and snow machines.

SCORE
Overall: * * * *
Construction/Materials: A
Fit: A-
Meets Intended Use: A
Innovation: A
Price/Value: A-
Weight (per boot): 2lb. 8.8 oz.

website: muckbootcompany.com

bushnell

Bushnell Archer
Price: $170

A familiar name in an unfamiliar category, the legendary optics maker’s new Archer boot (one of eight hunting boot models for 2012) has a drawstring closure, a handsome suede finish, and a sole that practically adheres to treestand platforms. The warm, 3.5-
millimeter neoprene features a nice fleece lining.

SCORE
Overall: * * * 1/2
Construction/Materials: A-
Fit: B+
Meets Intended Use: A-
Innovation: B+
Price/Value: A-
Weight (per boot): 2 lb. 10.6 oz.

Website: Bushnellfootwear.com

lacrosse

LaCrosse 4x Burly
Price: $120

These throwback rubber boots are stable on rocky ground and feature lots of room to accommodate large calves or thick pant legs. With 800 grams of insulation and a much-improved molded sole, the boots are quite warm. The sizing is classic Burly—snug around the ankles—so you might need help pulling them off.

SCORE
Overall: * * * 1/2
Construction/Materials: B
Fit: B
Meets Intended Use: A-
Innovation: C+
Price/Value: B+
Weight (per boot): 2 lb. 15.2 oz.

Website: lacrossefootwear.com

bogs

Bogs Bowman
Price: $191

The ingenious side handles make pulling on the Bowmans a snap. Overall, the boots are reasonably durable, and the sole gripped both metal and snowy surfaces equally well. While there was not a lot of built-in structure to protect the top of the foot, these boots were comfortable to wear over long distances.

SCORE
Overall: * * *
Construction/Materials: B+
Fit: B
Meets Intended Use: A-
Innovation: B-
Price/Value: B-
Weight (per boot): 2 lb. 9.9 oz.

Website: bogsfootwear.com

kenetrek

MOUNTAIN HUNTING

Editor’s Choice: Kenetrek Mountain Guide
Price: $425 

A one-piece 3.4-millimeter leather upper and excellent lacing control combine to produce an accurate and highly adjustable fit. The interior is lined with luxurious, soft leather. The aggressive (nearly sharp) Vibram soles accommodate crampons.

The boot’s support is  second to none, and the build quality is extraordinary. The Mountain Guides will likely be the last pair of mountain hunting boots you’ll buy for a decade.

SCORE
Overall: * * * * 
Construction/Materials: A+
Fit: A+
Meets Intended Use: A+
Innovation: B+
Price/Value: A-
Weight (per boot): 2lb. 6.6 oz

Website: kenetrek.com

Lowa

Lowa bighorn Hunter GTX
Price: $450

This boot utilizes a proprietary outsole that incorporates a layer of textile in the rubber lugs to increase grip. A great choice for elk and sheep hunters alike, the Hunter GTX was easy to break in and displaced sweat like a dry sponge.

SCORE
Overall: * * * * 
Construction/Materials: A
Fit: A
Meets Intended Use: A+
Innovation: A
Price/Value: B+
Weight (per boot): 2lb. 0.7 oz.

Website: lowa.com

Schnee

Schnee’s Beartooth
Price: $339 

A soft leather collar and tongue combine to deliver incredible comfort. Using a compound exclusive to Schnee’s, the Vibram sole holds tight even on slick rocks. The 2.6-millimeter upper is triple-stitched, making this a killer value at under $350.

SCORE
Overall: * * * *
Construction/Materials: A
Fit: A
Meets Intended Use: A
Innovation: B
Price/Value: A
Weight (per boot): 1lb. 14 oz.

Website: schnees.com

columbia

Columbia Hell’s Peak
Price: $190

The Hell’s Peak provides impressive lacing control and a decent amount of protection, given its ultralight weight (26.4 ounces). They’re perfect for stalking elk or mule deer, but you likely won’t get more than two seasons of aggressive use out of these boots.

SCORE
Overall: * * * 1/2
Construction/Materials: B+
Fit: B+
Meets Intended Use: B
Innovation: A-
Price/Value: B
Weight (per boot): 1lb. 10.4 oz.

Website: columbia.com

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Posted by on June 23, 2015 in hunting equipment, Wawang Lake Resort

 

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